Porto Venere

Porto Venere

“There – comes Triton
from the waves that lap
the threshold of a Christian
temple, and every near hour
is ancient. Every doubt
takes you by hand
as if by a young girl friend..”

E. Montale

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Porto Venere, the pearl of the Ligurian coast

Porto Venere is a town located in Liguria, which is coastal region in North Western Italy, long and narrow, stretching from the French border to Tuscany, between mountains and sea. Porto Venere and the villages of Cinque Terre” were designated by “UNESCO” as a “World Heritage Site” in 1997. The “Regional Natural Park” in Portovenere offers a unique landscape with its high coasts, caves and vegetation that permeates the atmosphere in any season with the changing shades of color.

Among steep vineyards and crystal blue waters, it’s  easy to understand why so many artists in need of inspiration have made this land a must for their creativity. I  climbed countless staircases and enjoyed the main landmarks, food and wine and I have fallen in love with Porto Venere. Why? Read what to see and to do in this angle of Italian paradise  in my post here below!I would definitely rank Porto Venere among the most romantic ones I have ever seen!

 

Porto Venere, the most beautiful sea village in Italy

I decided to have a half day trip in Porto Venere , which is a little Medieval town located in the “Gulf of La Spezia” . Its nickname is “Gulf of the Poets”, because attracted writers, painters and artists  (especially in the 19th and 20th centuries) , including:

All of them are all closely associated with this stretch of water. All of them  praised its beauty throughout time. It is said that the spirit of the English Romantic poets still lives on between the inlets and promontories of this bewitching cove. It is easy to see why.

How to go there

A short trip to Porto Venere  is enough to enjoy the smart atmosphere of this unforgettable place.  I went from Pisa to Porto Venere   by car following Google directions .  There are a lot of blue parking lots (1,50€/h) outside the historic center  delimited by the blue stripes. They continue almost to the town centre. If you park there, you can take a bus, which goes from the parking places to the town centre (1€ round trip ticket).

There is also a parking place in the centre (under the roof) which costs 2,50€/h but it is not very big . It is possible to get to  is enough to enjoy the smart atmosphere of this unforgettable place.  I went from Pisa to Porto Venere   by car  by bus or by ferry

The history of  Porto Venere

Porto Venere is full of history . Here  some interesting information . In the 2nd century AD Porto Venere  was a port used by the Romans for routes to Gaul and Spain. The name of the town comes from “Portus Veneris”, an ancient temple dedicated to the Venus, the Roman goddess of love .

After the fall of the Roman empire, the Byzantines took an interest here . But the Lombards came here  in the 600’s. Later, Porto Venere  was made famous due to the interest taken in its by famous poets and authors. Above all  the English Romantics, who sought its wild bay as a place of meditation. Namely the English poet Lord Byron , who took a chose  this place  for  inspiration for his many works.

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9 things to do in Portovenere 

Every visitor that visit Porto Venere for the first time loves its amazing landscape with its colourful buildings, picturesque harbour and romantic promontory protruding into the sea like a huge ship. The town is small and most of its attractions are within walking distance or a short boat-ride away. But  there are lot of things to do in Porto Venere , such as:

  1. “Porta del Borgo “:  This is the ancient entrance, which dates back to the 12th century and is still intact. Entering this  imposing gate, you reach the historic centre of Porto Venere. Albeit touristy, there’s an air of local life as you walk along the cobbled alleyways of  Porto Venere. You will be immediately struck by the calm and peaceful atmosphere, typical of a small fishing village;
  2. “The colourful houses of Porto Venere”: The  the pastel-colored houses are the main drawing point of this little coastal town. They were once built to function as a defense shield to protect do Porto Venere against the recurring attacks from the enemies. The tall houses don’t have balconies and windows are small. This way it would be impossible for the enemy to scale them. If you walk out on the port you can get nice photos of these cute houses;
  3. “Church of San Lorenzo”: It is a religious building erected in Romanesque style between 1118 and 1130. It is dedicated to Saint Lawrence, which is the local patron saint. “Church of San Lorenzo” is also known as “Sanctuary of the Madonna Bianca”, and It  is situated in a dominant position on a hill overlooking the village of Portovenere, close to the Castello Doria;
  4. “Doria Castle”: It is situated on top of a  hill. The fortified structure goes back to the 1139 when the first written mention of the castle is found. It was the center of the battle between Pisa and Genoa in the 13th century. Then, between the 15th and 17th centuries it underwent major reconstructions again. It was of military importance until it was used as a prison under the French rule in the beginning of the 19th century. Again, in the 1970’s, further restoration was made and today it hosts various cultural events and exhibitions;
  5.  “Windmills”: There are the rests of three ancient windmills. Two at the base of the “Doria Castle” ,  which later were converted  into watchtowers . The other one is located near the gates of the town, and it is called “Mulino di Campiglia”;
  6. “Byron’s Cave”: The “Byron Cave”  is also called  “Grotta Arpaia” . It  seems to be a lively picture.  This incredibly beautiful bay was dedicated to the  Byron, who  swam across the bay of Porto Venere  to visit his fellow English muse, Shelley, who was residing in the village of San Terenzo. The “Byron Cave”  bears a plaque commemorating “the immortal poet who as a daring swimmer defied the waves of the sea from Portovenere to Lerici.”
  7. Church of Saint Peter”: This wonderful  church , which overlooks the “Gulf of the Poets”, is the symbol of Porto Venere , . Sitting on a rock peninsula for defense reasons, the Church of Saint Peter” was built in the 1256 on top of the remains of another church. It’s a great example of Liguria’s Gothic-Geonese architecture. In the first half of the 1900s, it underwent restorations .  Today it sees more peaceful days hosting ceremonial events like weddings. E. Montale, an Italian author, dedicated a poem to this church;
  8. Sail around the islands of Palmaria, Tino e Tinetto : These three islands are a  cultural landscape of great scenic and cultural value. It is wort going there not only for the breath taking landscapes, but also for the many remains of early monastic establishments;
  9. “Hike to Riomaggiore”: You can hike from Porto Venere  to Riomaggiore, the first of theCinque Terre”. It’s a 13,8 km hike and takes about 5-6 hours one way. The lovely  town climbs up along the ridges overlooking the sea and it is characterized from the typical stone houses with coloured façades and slate-roofs;

Porto Venere and the best of the Ligurian cuisine

The geographic position of Liguria makes for interesting and unexpected foods. With mountains to the north and the Mediterranean to the south, Liguria enjoys a temperate climate unlike other areas of northern Italy. That’s why Ligurian cuisine not only makes use of fish, as you would expect from a coastal region, but also of wild herbs, white meat, and locally-made cheese. Delicate flavours abound as well.

The main traditional dishes of Porto Venere best represents the extraordinary heritage of Ligurian food and wine. It is  based on fresh , genuine and simple recipes, including:

7 Top  food in Porto Venere

  1. Olive oil
  2. “Pesto alla Genovese”; 
  3. “Taggiasche olives”
  4. Anchovies, sardines, tuna and squid;
  5. “Porcini Mushrooms”
  6. “Focaccia”; 
  7. “Easter Pie”.

Where to eat 

There are a lot of restaurants and cafes in the harbour of Porto Venere  and, perhaps surprisingly, some of them are quite good value, such as my favourite one:

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Porto Venere, a sea of wonder!

Things to do in Porto Venere  and surroundings can vary according to the season in which you visit. There are obvious summer choices like diving, swimming and being at the beach. But there are also a number of activities that you can enjoy also in spring and autumn: wine tasting itineraries, visiting wine cellars and vineyards , sailing, shopping in the nearby larger towns, attending local traditional events.

Everything is charming in Porto Venere , without being too artificially embellished to please the tourists. With its stunning sea views, narrow streets, and majestic church perched just on the cliffside, it is easy to see why so many famous poets loved Porto Venere  so much. It inspires awe and beauty. It renders you speechless . Porto Venere  is a muse for desolate artists everywhere. So,  have you decided your upcoming holiday?  Porto Venere is of course an extraordinary place where to go!

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