Andalusia

“…No creas lo que tus ojos te dicen.
Todo lo que muestran son limitaciones.
Mira con tu comprensión,
encuentra lo que ya sabes,
y verás el camino para volar…”
(R. Bach)

Andalusia, a Paradise between Europe and Africa

Andalusia is a Vibrant Destination to visit for its Treasures, the Faboulous Nightlife, the regional pride on Flamenco, Bullfighting, Moorish Architecture, and more over. 

Andalusia  consists of 8 provinces: Seville, Cádiz, Cordoba, Granada, Huelva, Jaen, Almeria and Malaga; each one of them has very distinct charateristics and it is worth spending some time in .Being the Southern part of the Iberian Peninsula and the Southernmost point of Europe, Andalusia boasts Several Microclimates and stunning and variegated Landscapes. Its coastline stretches for  over 500 miles peppered with beaches overlooking both the Mediterranean and the Atlantic: from the The Costa del Sol  to the The Costa de La Luz. Andalusia offers also imposing Mountain chains , such as the Sierra Morena, the Sierra Nevada, and the Sierra Madrona. Andalusia is a gem of nature, which provides Endless Nature Wanders , among which  24 Natural Parks, and the Tabernas , one of the most Wide World Known Desert for its International Cinematic Location ! The Tabernas is located in the barren interior of Costa de Almeria. It’s  approximately 280 square kilometers, and since the 1950s  Westerns, War Films and Fantasy Adventures have all been filmed in this Southeastern corner of Spain, such as the famous   Sergio Leone’s “Spaghetti Westerns”, Steven Spielberg’s “Indiana Jones”, David Lean’s “Lawrence of Arabia”, and so on. 

I’m still looking for the reason why I’m so fascinated by Andalusia , going beyond the fact that it is damned extraordinary! Its similarity to Sicily, where I was born,  could be a possible answer. I can say Andalusia and Sicily, are like twins, because they have much in common: Great Weather all the year long, Spectacular Nature, excellent Wine production and Gastronomy, Art, Passion, Strong Identity ,  a Sincere Sense of Hospitality, and above all a Mix of Cross-Cultural Heritage. 

Being a gateway between  Europe and Africa like Sicily, Andalusia attracted  different Cultures and People  over the past centuries:  Phoenicians, Greeks, Carthaginians, Romans, Christians, Vandals, Visigots,  and Arabs. Since 711 AC  the territory was ruled by Muslim caliphates  and emirates under the name of Al-Andalus, from which Andalusia takes its name today. The Guadalquivir River Valley was the heart of the Kingdom and the city of Cordoba became the capital of the Islamic Empire. Moors  were enlightened rulers, they contributed to the economical and social development of Andalusia and promoted a religious tolerance towards the Christian community  and the  Jewish one, something that was really revolutionary in the Middle Age.  Arabs governed Andalusia till  the 1492 , when the Catholic Kings  Ferdinand II of Aragon and Isabella I of Castile established the famous “Reconquesta”. In the same year the Italian Explorer Christopher Columbus sailed away from the harbor of Palos de la Frontera (in the Western coast of Andalusia ), and   discovered the New World, establishing the beginning of the Spanish Colonial Empire in the overseas territory. This florid period was the  “Golden Age” for Andalusia, whose fruits can still be seen  today in its  great buildings of the Gothic, the Renaissance and the early BaroqueSeville and Cádiz were the biggest and richest cities in the Iberian Peninsula. However,  the overwhelming majority of the wealth that reached Andalusia after the Discovery of America did not concur to the enrichment of the whole territory.  Indeed it was in part diverted in war and too much trade and finance came to be controlled by other areas of Spain and by other European States as well.  The economic situation  continued to deteriorate throughout the following period.  The 18th and 19th centuries were turbulent times for Andalusia marked by the Spanish War of Succession, the Napoleonic Invasion,  the Battle of Trafalgar, and social conflicts in the Andalusian countryside . The 20th century was firstly shaped by the conflict between Monarchists and Republicans, then  the ensuing Civil War (1936-39) ended with the national government of General Franco, who maintained his power until his death in 1975. With the return to the Democracy under the popular monarch Juan Carlos I, Andalusia attained a new self-confidence and became an Autonomous Region in 1982.

Seville, My Second Time 

I love exploring New places, Gathering New Experiences and Trying new Wine & Food, so I can write about them in my Travel Blog WeLoveItaly.eu.

Seville was only one of  the several Must-See Places where to be Once in my Life for another Emotional and Useful Post. This was the reason why I made a 24 hours Trip there two months ago, but not yet knowing that  Seville would have bewitched me  Soul & Body! Seville made me feel like I was exactly where I needed to be. As I wanted to understand why I was so inspired by this passionate city, I decided to spend my Easter Holidays in this exotic metropolis , not only because spring was the best period for its mild warm temperature, but also because I had much more time. Therefore, I had the possibility to enjoy the Charm of  Andalusia and its Hypnotic Atmosphere. I discovered other amazing cities too, such as Cádiz and Cordoba, which made me deeply aware of the complexity of this incredible land and off the “alma” (soul) of its inhabitants. 

 

What to do in Seville 

I arrived in Seville at the end of April between two important celebrations the Semana Santa” (Holy week) and the Feria de Abril” (April Fair), avoiding the busiest period of the year, but at the same time missing the most interesting events too. By the way these are  some of the best Seville‘s Marvels which involed me more closely: 

Cadiz & Cordoba 

My Andalusian Itinerary included two great cities , Cádiz and Cordoba, which were connected to Seville by fast Renfe trains in  about two hours. I found  Cádiz  andCordoba historic, quaint  and seductive. Here you are some reasons why to go there: 

  • Exploring the remnants of a great Islamic Empire;
  • Strolling the cobbled laneways and famous floral patios;
  • Witnessing one of the Most Historically Fascinating Buildings in the World:
  • Visiting the home of powerful kings;
  • Tasting superb “tapas ”  in cute squares;

Cadiz

​​Cádiz is the oldest city in Europe.  It was founded in 1100 BC by the Phoenicians, who called it “Gadir” and traded Baltic amber and British tin, as well as Spanish silver.

The city  became a naval base for the Romans  until 1262, when it was taken from the Muslims by Alfonso X. It enjoyed a period of notable splendour  with the Discovery of America, as Columbus sailed from this port on his second and fourth voyages. Much later the city had its “Golden Age” during the 18th century,  when it had the monopoly of American trade  with Spain to a large extent. From this time it grew into one of the wealthiest and most cosmopolitan cities in Spain and most of the city’s fine buildings date from this time.

 

What to do in Cadiz

Cádiz is filled with things to see and experiences to live. It has a laid-back vibe, excellent seafood and atmospheric streets bathed in intense sunlight.

  • Cádiz Cathedral: When I was  in“Barrio del Pópulo”, I found myself contempling the majestic Cádiz Cathedral . Considered among Cadiz’s Most Famous Monuments, the golden dome of the Cádiz Cathedral represents everyone’s classic image of the city. Cádiz Cathedral, designed by Vicente de Acero, is a spectacular architectural work of art and is very original managing to combine the traditional Spanish Architecture with Baroque forms from Italy. Check out the inside of the cathedral for five euros or with a guided tour. You can also climb up the tower for another great view of the city; 
  • Tavira Tower: It is a Watchtower and  witness to the trade and prosperity which the city experienced in the 18th century. It is situated in the centre of town, and It is also the highest point in the town at 45 meters above the sea level. The most known attraction of this Tower , apart from the beautiful panoramic view I had on the top floor of it, is the famous “Camera Oscura”.  It consists of an optical system that reflects a live image on a white circular screen which functions as telescopes used in submarines, where visitors can enjoy an exhibition of approximately 15 minutes. These exposures are developed by guides that explain accurately and with sympathy all the historical data, interesting facts and curiosities;
  • “La Caleta Beach”: this is known as one of the most beautiful beaches in Cádiz , which has been made famous by the James Bond movie “007, Die Another Day. It is located between two old castles, the Castillo de Santa Catalina” and the Castillo de San Sebastián” , where you can enjoy art exhibitions and colourful sunsets; 
  • “Calle Plocia” :  It’s a street behind the “Plaza de Sevilla” full of restaurants and bar where to try the best of the Andalusian “tapas” and  Wines.

Cordoba

Cordoba is a pint-sized historical jewellery that punches well above its weight. Cordoba was even better than I imagined! I was in complete awe.

Whilst Western European peasants worried that their wattle-and-daub might not see out the winter the Cordoba people were carving intricate vegetal friezes into their sandstone. Whilst wild Vikings were burning their boats, Cordoba’s Muslims were creating libraries! During its turbulent history, Cordoba was under Roman rule, then colonized by the Muslims in the 8th century, which led to it becoming a major Islamic center and the capital of the “Caliphate of Córdoba” in the Middle Ages. At that time it was one of the biggest, if not the biggest city in the world. During the Reconquista” in the 13th century, it was recaptured by Christian forces. 

 

What to do in Cordoba

One day was too short to experience all the magic things Cordoba had to offer, but It was enough  to get an appreciable first impression.  I arrived early in the morning so I didn’t have to stand in line to visit its main attractions.

The most important advice I can probly give you to visit Cordoba is: planning and research is everything! A lot of monuments are only open until 3 pm. So make sure to choose what you want to see in advance! Here My Top List of Things to do in Cordoba

  • “The Mosque–Cathedral Mezquita”: One of the World’s Greatest Works of Islamic Architecture, “Mezquita Mosque–Cathedral” is an astounding hybrid structure built as a Mosque in the 8th century by Umayyad Abd-ur-Rahman. At that time Cordoba was the leading city in terms of science and culture in Europe and the most important city in the Islamic Kingdom. At the beginning of the 13th century, Cordoba was retaken by Christians and the Mosque was converted into a church, culminating with the Renaissance Cathedral Nave in the 16th century. Click here for Useful Tips for visiting it
  • “Patio De Los Naranjos”: an enchanting Orange Patio inside the “The Mosque–Cathedral Mezquita” . This former Caliphate Courtyard of Ablutions today houses the ticket office and is a great place to enjoy the shade of the trees and the subtle orange scent. Click here for Useful Tips for visiting it
  • Cordoba Historic Centre :  Just around the corner North from the Mosque, you’ll find “Calleja de las Flores” , a narrow whitewashed alley filled with flowers and a great photo opportunity. The Historic Centre of Cordoba is famed for its hidden patios, large interior courtyards and twisting alleys;
  • “La Judería” : The streets which are referred to as “La Judería” , that means the “Jewish Quarter”, are the ones where Jewish people once dwelled and it is still the most beautiful part of the city. There was a time several centuries ago when Cordoba was known as the city of three cultures, becasue  Christians, Muslims and Jews lived in harmony with each other.  Today, there are very very few Muslims and Jews comunities in Cordoba, but their influence remains in the Architecture and the Mosque and Synagogue (neither functioning religiously now) all around; 
  • “Paseo de la Ribera”: Cordoba‘s Promenade is an area filled with stylish restaurants, and it’s a  perfect place where to stop for a break! I walked along  the Roman Bridge to reach the other side of the city and I had nice views of the nature around the  Guadalquivir River. The Roman Bridge dates from the 1st century BC, but was rebuilt in the 10th century during the Moorish occupation. The Roman Bridge leads to “Torre de la Calahorra” at South end , that is a fortified gate originally built by the Moors (Almohads) and extensively restored by King Enrique II of Castile in 1369 to defend the city from attack by his brother Pedro I the Cruel. The tower houses the  Museo Vivo de Andalus” , a living museum featuring waxworks and a model of the Alhambra
  • Horno San Luis”: it’s a delicious resaturant in the Old Town , where I sheltered after I got caught unexpectedly in a downpour at lunch time.  The staff was super friendly , its cocktails fantastic and the food even better! I had  “salmorejo” , the typical dish from Cordoba – a gazpacho” with eggs and Iberico ham, paired with  my Verdejo ! The restaurant was also an attraction in itself. It consisted of different patios all decorated differently but with a lot of plants and flowers;
  • “Plaza de La Tendillas”: it’s the modern business and financial core of the city, where I stopped before going  back to Seville.  Clouds gave way to splendid sunshine , so  I  sat on the edge of a fountain to take last photos in Cordoba. During my “siesta” my attention was attracted by a smiling lady while sketching a dome  of a white Colonial House . Her drawing was simple and beautiful, absolutely clear, made only with a piece of charcoal. I congratulated her to be able to capture the magnificence of that old builduing in few essential lines.  We started to talk each other,  and we introduced ourselves . We had immediately felt a great liking each other. Her name was Lucila Veloz Gutierrez, a Well-Rounded Artist born in Guanajuato, Mexico, who moved for her job in Cordoba twenty years ago. To my great astonishment she invited me to go to her atelier in the heart of “Plaza de La Tendillas” at the second floor of an old and elegant palace. It was a fascinating  laboratory of Architecture and Painting , where I admired her works dealing with the  costant theme of the integration of Mexican Comunity in Andalusia. I’ll never forget the brightness of her  watercolors depicting the Bicolored Arches of the Cordoba Mezquita. As I was heading to the train station, I knew that it wasn’t  the last time I would see Lucila

There’s no place like Andalusia! This is a mesmerizing  Spanish region, which exudes style and flair whilst also steeped in hundreds of years of glorious history. 

The true essence of Spain is in Andalusia, in  the passionate Flamenco woven into the fabric of everyday life, along the intricate cobbled lanes of a blindingly whitewashed village, in a majestic cathedral that soars into the blue, or inside a local  “tapas bar” where locals and visitors  come for Top Food & Wine !  Whether it’s a masterpiece of Islamic architecture, a breathtaking nature scene, or a ravishing coastal town overflowing with old-world charm, there’s no better way to grab the soul of Southern Spain than by visiting these beautiful places in Andalusia. Definitely, Andalusia is a perfect idea for your next upcoming trip, because this buzzing land will give you that tingling sensation in your stomach and make your heart beat faster . 

Andalusia is somewhere I’ll return to again and again!

 

Enjoy it! 

Stefania

Seville

Seville Alma Latina

“…And crazed by the horizon, 
it mixes in its wine
Don Juan’s bitterness
with Dionysius’ perfection.
Seville to wound.
Always Seville to wound!…”

García Lorca

Seville is located on the banks of Guadalquivir River and It is the Capital of Andalusia. It is the Fourth Largest City of Spain and it’s considered the Artistic, Cultural, Financial, Economic and Social Center of the South of Spain. The Metropolitan area of Seville has a population of more than 1 million people.

Seville  has become one of the most popular choices among visitors to  Spain: a Cultural Melting Pot, its towns and villages are like mosaics and columns on which the History of Tartessians, Iberians, Arabs and Christians is written and kept alive. This town was the most important city in the world several centuries ago when the Spanish trading fleet would bring back the riches from the Americas up the Guadalquivir River  where they would be bought by European traders to spread throughout the Mediterranean and the rest of Europe. Reminiscent of those days you can still see the Torre de Oro (Unesco World Heritage Site) and the Old Tobacco Factory (currently used by the University of Seville). Seville  remains the center of the Flamenco World, both for music and dance. Apart from Flamenco, Seville offers an Amazing Culinary Experience with Tapas Bars found on every corner and the Variety of Food that they offer is truly astounding. While mostly famous for its traditional Spanish and Mudéjar Architecture, here also boasts a wide variety of modern buildings and places of interest to see.

Seville  is a city that you could stay in for weeks and still not explore every corner. However, the good news is that 24 hours in Seville is enough to at least give you a good taste of what there is to see and do. Getting to Seville from the Airport is easy thanks to the EA City Buses, which let passengers get to downtown (Plaza de Armas) with about 35 minutes. It is without a doubt the cheapest mean of transportation (€ 4,00) to reach Seville. Taking a Seville Airport Taxi (around 15-20 minutes) costs approximately € 23,00.

Follow my quick guide on How to Spend 24 hours in Seville grab your comfortable shoes, and explore one of Spain‘s most memorable cities !

 

 

City’s Old Town

I stayed in  the City’s Old Town to explore

  • the Cobbled Streets of  barrio Santa Cruz :  It is the most picturesque and delightful part of the city, and it looks like Parisian boulevards, and It’s full of beautiful old palaces and churches. The area is bordered by Calles Mateas GagoSanta Maria La Blanca, San José, the Jardines de Murillo  and the Alcázar . It’s s one of the best ways to pass a long morning or afternoon in the Andalusian capital. And don’t worry if you get lost, because it’s a rite of passage for the first-time visitor to Seville to become happily disoriented in Santa Cruz !
  • the Cathedral: it  was conceived on the site of a former mosque during the city’s reconquest;  builders and city planners wanted to make it so grandiose that they’d be taken for madmen. Mad or not, your visit to Seville will start with the largest Gothic Cathedral in the world;
  • the Giralda Tower: the monument’s confluence of different architectural styles is a reflection of the cultures that have risen and fallen in Seville. The result, eclectic and remarkable, is fascinating. Originally a Minaret for Seville’s Primary Mosque, the first section of the Giralda was built in the Almohad Style by architects Ahmad Ibn Basso and Ali de Gomara. In 1356, the four bronze spheres that had crowned the tower fell to the ground and were destroyed. The bell tower is in Renaissance Style and was designed by in the 16th century. At the peak of the bell tower, at 104 metres high, a special weather vane can be seen: El Giraldillo, another symbol of Seville
  •  the Breathtaking Alcázar Palace: the Spanish word alcázar comes from the Arabic al qasr, meaning “castle.” Throughout its history, the magnificent structure saw use as both a fortress and a palace. The earliest known use of the site was for a Visigoth basilica. The Moors promptly destroyed it after arriving in Seville in 712. In its place, they built a military fortress, the remains of which can still be seen in some parts of the surviving Alcázar today. By the 12th century, the Christian Reconquest was in full swing across the Iberian Peninsula. After King Fernando III recaptured Seville from the Moorish rulers in 1248, he converted the existing  Alcázar structure into a Christian palace. Over the next few centuries, the ruling Christian monarchs were continuously renovating and adding onto the site, transforming it into the Splendid Royal Residence we know today; 
  • Plaza de Spana: this great building is Seville‘s most impressive after the Cathedral, for its sheer scale and grandeur. It is a semi-circular brick building, Renaissance/Neo-Moorish in style, with a tower at either end . In front of the building, following the curve of its façade, is a 500-meter canal crossed by four bridges, and in the center of it all is the Plaza itself. You can rent small boats to row in the canal – the Plaza is known as “the Venice of Seville”. A major tourist attraction, it is the finishing point of horse-and-carriage rides. The Plaza is situated inside Maria Luisa Park, next to Avenida Isabella La Catolica, a pedestrianized avenue with ice-cream sellers and bike rental stands – this is the best way to reach the park, entering near the Teatro Lope de Vega and Fabrica de Tabaco. You also can reach the park from the Prado de San Sebastián (served by metro, bus and tram) on one side, or the river on the other;
  • the Old   Triana Market : as I walked away from the center of Seville over the Triana Bridge, and across the Guadalquivir River, I decided to get energy in the 150 year Old Triana Market to go on with my adventure!  There are lots of Food & Wine Vendors that sell their product here.  It’s a perfect place to stock up on food for a great tapas lunch, like the one I  had at Loli Cerveria. I can’t forget my Sevillian Menù: mushrooms filled with a homemade mayonnaise, fried octopus with sweet and sour piquant pepper sorbet , fresh tomato salad with tuna and swordfish  and a of course a glass of  the Top Spanish White Wine  “Verdejo” . In the lower part of the market are the remains of the Castle of San Jorge, the seat of the Inquisitional Court. The barrio of Triana is less touristy than the center of Seville. This area was once the home of dockworkers and fishermen.

 

Nightlife in Seville. Tips for living “la marcha

 

Seville is famous for its vibrant Nightlife, which extends until dawn and beyond, and cannot fail to impress in comparison with major cities such as Madrid and Barcelona.

In Seville there’s a wide choice of Nightlife for all ages, including Jazz/Music/Night/Flamenco Clubs, Cabarets, Music Halls, etc. In winter the Bars in the center and other spots offer the best places to keep warm and follow la marcha. It’s common to begin with a beer or two and maybe a tapa, then head to a Bar de Copas as the night goes on. Those still wishing to continue often hit a discoteca to dance  until 6 or 7 am. We’re all different when it comes to what we want for Nightlife, so I’ve tried to offer some spots to enjoy the nightlife or la marcha in Seville.

  • Dinner at Casa Robles : it’s an intimate, cosy and comfortable restaurant in the heart of Seville ; it serves delicious meat or fish menus,  and it also boasts an excellent wine list. I had  Fish crudités, and a Cod à la Brás, made from shreds of salted cod , onions and thinly chopped (matchstick-sized) fried potatoes, all bound with scrambled eggs; 
  • Seville‘s Night View  at EME Hotel’s Roof Garden: it’s the best Rooftop Bars in Seville for the creative cocktails and stunning view. Here  your  Sevillian Night  turns into an Unforgettable Memory with its sophisticated atmosphere and its direct view over the Cathedral and the Giralda
  • A Typical Sevillian Bar at El Mariscal : a Dancing Night at this small Bar hidden away in a narrow romantic street of Calle Mariscal in the Santa Cruz neighbourhood. A very lovely place and perfect to end your stay in Seville .

Seville  is the city that captured my heart quickly. I fell in love with its narrow streets, its tiny bars, and its stunning Beauty– and, of course, with its Amazing Food & Wine. I greatly admire the devotion of the locals to their city; they’re obsessed (and rightfully so) with its Festivals, Climate and Cuisine. 

I have to say that in the midst of My Love Affair with Seville , I left! I am thrilled to have the opportunity to return to Seville soon. 

hasta luego

Enjoy it! 

Stefania