Federici Winery, Ortonovo, Liguria

Federici Winery, Ortonovo, Liguria

“With Wine, Poetry, or Virtue, as you choose, but get Drunk!”

Charles Baudelaire

The ‘Federici Winery’, the Lunigiana in a glass! 

There is nothing like the regional products of a territory that can describe its history and culture. The fruits of the earth tell us how  people have shaped the landscape where they live. That is why visiting “Federici Winery is a special way to discover Lunigiana.

Lunigiana is a mysterious land sandwiched between the Ligurian coastal towns of “Cinque Terre” and the Tuscan cities of Lucca and Pisa. Follow me , read my post and explore a new part of Italy!

Federici Winery

A special visit at “Federici Winery”, Ortonovo, Liguria

On the 2nd November I visited the “Federici Winery in Ortonovo, near the ancient ruins of Luni, the famous Roman port, where Roman merchant ships  used to transport precious Carrara marble along the Tyrrhenian Sea.

Luca Federici welcomed me when I arrived at his wine cellar. He was ready to guide me through a tour of his  winery and dedicated his time to share with me the story of his family, his territory and his wines. Luca’s big smile warmed a rainy day, making me realise that if you do what you love, you never work a day in your life!

Federici Family, a Story of vineyards and men

The Federici family, originally from Ortonovo  boast a long tradition of winemaking that has been handed down from father to son.

It all started in 1985, when Giulio Federici and his wife Isa, the third generation of the family restored a country property in Lunigiana , devoting themselves to cultivating the local grapes and to making quality wines.

Luca, the oenoligist, and his brother Andrea, the sales and marketing manager, represent the fourth generation of the Federici family“. Today together they lead their business with passion, professionalism and with care for their territory.

Vermentino, the gold grape of Lunigiana land

The best result of the Federici family‘s love for what they do is  of course one of my favourite wines, the so called Vermentino: a dry white wine that is sleek, tangy and even a little bit sexy.

There are hundreds of white grape types planted throughout Italy,  though the Vermentino for me is really the best  .

This old variety grows well  here , because  the climate is mild , and because the vines are planted close to the sea.

I’m crazy  about the elegance of the Vermentino as well as the , minerality and  saltiness in its finish, and pairing it  with the local cuisine specialities , such as : seafood antipasti and pesto sauce, is something you have to experience once in your life!

“Federici Winery” is located near the ancient Roman port of Luni

“Federici Winery owes its name to the sun shining in the ancient Roman port of Luni. The archaeological site is still intact and just a couple of miles from the winery, and commemorates the thousand year old tradition of winemaking in this area.

“Federici Winery is located near La Spezia in far eastern Liguria nestling against the Apuan Alps (with peaks reaching almost 7,000ft  only 5 km from the sea) and the river plain of the River Magra.

The terroir of “Federici Winery”

This privileged position  provides an incredible microclimate, where the action of sea and mountain breeze, alternating between day and night, creates optimal  conditions for growing vines and producing wines of excellence.

Here the soil in the valley is of an alluvial and sandy  nature with leaner clay on the hills. That is how the Federicis can experiment  different varieties of the Vermentino producing completely different taste profiles in the vineyard, along with other grapes:

Harvest usually starts  towards the end of  August and the beginning of September . Grape picking is one of the most important phases of work for the Federicis and is entirely done by hand just like it used to be when the winery was first set up.

The estate of “Federici Winery” and its cellar

The “Federici Winery is a key player in the local economy and has the objective to constantly work to enhance the quality of its wines. The winery extends over  around 25 hectares with vineyards in prized locations both on the hillside and on the plain.

The winery buys hand-harvested grapes from other small growers in the surrounding countryside paying for quality, and  keeping alive both tradition and wine culture. The winery produces 200.000 bottles a year, including  whites, reds, rosé, sparkling wines, sweet wines and grappa.

Art and thecnology at “Federici Winery”

The Federicis invested a lot of money in the new winery in 2015, which now covers 1600 square metres and it is equipped with  state of the art technology, such as a special isobaric bottling system, which ensures  optimal care in the packaging of the wine .

Moreover, the winery follows  bio-architectural principles in order to  reduce  the impact on the environment as well as maximise energy savings. The beautiful underground cellar, where the wines rest for their final refinement, is a perfect example of the  harmony that exists between the buildings and nature.

The cellar of “Federici Winery”

The cellar is situated around a hundred metres below sea level, which helps harness the natural stability of temperature and humidity provided by the  presence of an underground aquifer.

All this is further supported by constant control of every stage of the production process thanks to ecological  solutions in the wine cellar such as solar panels, natural ventilation and the use of wood, stone and brick.

The Federicis are very proud of their magical reign and passion and patience and experience are key words of their philosophy.  For them viticulture is a family tradition, and their care for the environment, the climate, the vineyards and  their employees produces matchless wines, whose  flavour reflect the beauty of their terroir

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Tasting of the wines of Federici  Winery” 

Wine tasting in “Federici Winery is an intimate and personal experience. The tasting room  is very  large, decorated with frescos and has two magnificent handmade chandeliers the design of which has been inspired by nature.

Luca took me through his line of biological  wines and demonstrated the quality of his best bottles of wine by pouring me a glass of their Vermentino. He  is proud of his wines with good reason and I sipped through his wines with pleasure.

All showed great character and depth as well as a softness you rarely see with natural wines. They seemed stable, substantial and yet so expressively honest.

The “Colli di Luni DOC Area”

Luca explained how the ideal climate for their white wines exists in the “Colli di Luni DOC Area”:

“ During the day there is superb ventilation and optimal  exposure to the sun whilst the evenings are fresh and humid, always with moderate temperatures whether it be winter or summer.

The best white wines  of the “Federici Winery”

Federici‘s  vineyards are situated within two to three miles of the sea, and here are the three versions of  the their  best wines made from 100 % Vermentino:

What you don’t know about the Vermentino!

I learned a lot about Vermentino thanks to Luca. The best Vermentino is medium-bodied, fresh and quite round, with a floral aftertaste, and its freshness is the result of the natural, lively acidity of the grape itself which provides balance as well as a marvellous affinity for pairing with a variety of foods.

Vermentino grows not only in Liguria, but also in Sardinia and Tuscany, and in each of these three territories, the vineyards are very close to the sea,  giving the wines a special character that you don’t find in wines from vineyards in a warmer, inland area.

Vermentino from a maritime climate tends to display a great minerality or saltiness in the finish. Vermentino is one of the most important varieties in Liguria, along with another white known as Pigato.

The best red wines of “Federici Winery”

Lunigiana is one of the smallest region in Italy, but its white wines are among the most distinctive, like the other three wines I sipped at the “Federici Winery :

Lunigiana, a magic land between Tuscany and Liguria

If you are a wine lover or a wine expert, Lunigiana could be your perfect upcoming destination. Lunigiana, in north west Tuscany, has a lot to offer. It is a location to be enjoyed all year round, and above all it is easy to get to via flights to either Pisa or Genoa.

The wine region of Lunigiana is very beautiful, with vineyards on rocky  hillsides that  overlook the sea as well as vineyards higher up in the valleys  and small narrow roads that meander up amongst the vineyards.   With such a large number of grape varieties unique to Lunigiana, this can lead to some confusion though doing research before visiting and wine tasting in such a picturesque region is worthwhile.

What to see in Lunigiana

Lunigiana is also dotted with numerous stunning medieval villages and  is a pearl amongst the other international  and aristocratic hamlets  along the zone of the  “Riviera Ligure di Levante”, such as:

Lunigiana lies between the northern Appenines, the “Versilian Plan”, and the “Gulf of la Spezia” and has real rural character as well as castles, Romanesque churches, and  old towns full scenes of rare beauty starting with Luni and Sarzana.

The ancient Roman port of Luni

Luni  the ancient Roman port which gives the name to LunigianaLuni is surrounded by a valley called “Val di Magra” in the “Montemarcello Magra Park”, which extends from inland Liguria up to the Gulf of Poets”. Points of interest include the remains of an Roman Amphitheatre (1st century AD) and the Archaeological Museum.

Sarzana, a beautiful town in Liguria

Some are born in Sarzana and love it for life, others choose Sarzana as their place. The latter seems to be the case with the family Bonaparte, who were welcomed there in exile and from  where they left to conquer the world.

The Bonaparte family left an important witness to their presence in the form of the “Bonaparte Tower House”, which is located in the first section of the “Via Mazzini”, a few steps away from the ancient church of “Sant’Andrea”.

Sarzana is a quiet city, tourists don’t go there much. You might peek into some of the antique shops in the historic centre, or into the terrific  main square “Piazza Matteotti” .

There are many restaurants in Sarzana, and all of them are good. It’s like the town is waiting for tourists who seldom come.

What to visit in Sarzana 

Sarzana has two nice castles:

Federici Wines are perfect for each moment of your Life

Italy, 100 % of Beauty!

Save your appetite my friends . Stay thirsty. Passion and humility create balance in the heart and balance in the glass. Luca knows this and you can see it in his eyes and taste it in his wines.

It was an incredible experience. I learned a lot about wines and the culture of this land. Without any doubt, I can help you with finding a new place to go for your upcoming holidays in Italy!

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Camogli

Camogli

Camogli, Liguria

Camogli  is situated in the north-west Italian region of Liguria, between Genoa and Portofino. It is a fishing settlement rather than a beach resort. Camogli  is only a short drive from Pisa. I arrived here by car with a friend of mine, and I definitely was able to relate to the ‘hidden’ part. I parked at the top of the town and explored on foot. There is limited access to vehicles in the town itself.

As I  descended from the car park towards the town Camogli was really  pleasant ,  the seafront area was lovely. I fall in love with  the harbour and the seafront, attractively surrounded by tall pastel-painted  houses . There were lots of cafes and shops all around that diverted my attention!

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The  history of Camogli

The origins of Camogli  date back to the prehistory. Around the year one thousand, when the village was property of Milan Diocese, the town started to be known as a maritime hamlet, keeping this characteristic over the centuries, under the dominion of the Republic of Genoa”.

Napoleon in Camogli

In 1797 Camogli  was included by Napoleon Bonaparte in the Tigullio Gulf Department, with Rapallo as county town. After theBattle of Abukir”, where the French fleet was totally destroyed, the Camogli  ship owners began to pour money into new merchant ships, receiving many requests by the main European governments.

In 1856 the Camogli fleet counted on about 580 ships which were all booked in the local “Mutual Maritime Insurance”. In that period this company was the only one of that kind in Europe and Camogli one of the most powerful marine cities.  At the end of 19th century, with the rising of steamboat sailing, Camogli main activities turned into fishing and tourism.

Camogli a gem of Liguria

Camogli is a fishing village that’s located on the west side of the Portofino peninsula. Although somewhat off the beaten path, It  is also a coastal tourist resort packed with rocky beaches and restaurants.

First of all, you should visit Camogli if you want a quieter and more laidback Italian Riviera experience.

Camogli is a a true hidden gem of Liguria.  The little coloured houses face the sea and the sun shines on them. I enjoyed  its picturesque setting. It was simply stunning. I was amazed by the blue colour of the sea, the seafront is essentially divided into two parts: the eastern section with a beach and promenade, and the western part with a harbour. The beach is of stone and pebble rather than sand, and very popular in summer.

What to see in Camogli

From the beach area where you arrive you can stroll along the seafront promenade as far as the small Dragonara Castle”. It  dates from the 15th century and now holds occasional exhibitions.

Also on this headland is the other important historical monument in the town, the Basilica Santa Maria”, which also overlooks the harbour. Originally dating from the 12th century, the basilica has been substantially modified over the centuries . Now has an interior in the baroque style and a neo-classical facade.

Other things to see :

  • “The Church of San Rocco”: is a lovely place of worship that’s perched high into the cliffs. Plenty of people say Camogli to “San Rocco” is an easy hike, but, uh, there are a lot of steps!
  • Relax in the sun on the rocky beach: The beaches are obviously a major attraction in this part of Italy. Pack your swimsuit and towel if you’re planning on coming to the beach. Keep in mind July and August brings incredibly hot weather

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My lunch at “La Piazzetta” 

The best part of the day was my lunch at “La Piazzetta” offering a  unique views of coastline. You’ll find the most regional specialties here cooked to a very high standard including trofie al pesto, lasagna al forno con pesto, fresh calamari and many dishes involving anchovies.

“Pigato”, the Vermentino of Liguria

I had a grilled fish with potatoes and the best White Wine in Liguria the so called “Pigato”. It’s one of Liguria’s most important grapes. Its wine is part of the denomination Riviera Ligure di Ponente”, a DOC from western Liguria and the region’s biggest.

This is one name you’ll want to keep an eye on when perusing the wine menu, if you’re lucky enough to find it. “Pigato” wines of Riviera Ligure di Ponente” are, in their best form, aromatically complex, mineral, long-lived, and with a saline touch that comes from the nearby coastline.

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A presto Camogli!

All in all, Camogli, Italy is worth the visit. Here below an useful link about what to do  in Camogli for the would-be traveller:

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