Podere Marcampo, Volterra

Podere Marcampo, Volterra

“Accept what life offers you and try to drink from every cup. All wines should be tasted; some should only be sipped, but with others, drink the whole bottle.”
Paulo Coelho

Podere Marcampo, Volterra, Tuscany

Six years ago two things happened to change my life. First of all I fell in love with Tuscany and then I became a sommelier. These were the starting points allowing me to discover the hidden delights of the Pisa wine country, a charming sun kissed land, stretching from the hills to the sea, blessed by God, as beautiful as unexpected!

Wine runs deep in the veins of Tuscany, being woven into the cultural identity of this central Italian paradise. Pisa wines are synonymous with excellence thanks to the efforts of many skilled professionals.‘Podere Marcampo’ is one of the most important wineries in the area being representative of Pisa and its province.  ‘Pisa Hills is not only a ‘DOC label’ but also a ‘wine road’ playing an increasingly important role in wine production in Tuscany and it is a wine area that is on the rise only recently starting to get the recognition that is deserves. ‘Pisa Hills meanders through the hills of the valley of the Era River and the lower part of the Arno Valley crossing a territory with traditions dating back to the time of the Etruscans. If you head towards this entrancing place you will be greeted by an environment almost untouched by modernity ranging from picturesque scenery of mesmerising color set amongst the trees to places where wine and oil are still cultivated and produced in the traditional way. ‘Podere Marcampo’ is an organic biodynamic wine estate which reflects all the beauty and wine production potential of the ‘Pisa Hills’ area.

Claudia del Duca

I sipped the elegant ‘Podere Marcampo’ wines for the first time at ‘Terre di Toscana’, a wine exhibition which took place at the ‘Luna Hotel’ in Viarreggio. I really liked these wines and Claudia Del Duca, the owner of ‘Podere Marcampo’, described them with reverence.

Claudia was very friendly, professional and kind, though what impressed me the most about her was her dedication to her work and her love for wine which was shared with her parents Genuino and Ivana. I promised myself to return again to her winery for another memorable experience! I arrived at ‘Podere Marcampo’ on a rainy day in late November in Volterra. ‘Podere Marcampo’ is a family farm business which produces both excellent and also rare red and white wines, extra virgin olive oil and grappa. At the front of her estate surrounded by lush and verdant countryside, Claudia welcomed me with a big smile. Looking at this scene where sky and sea converge at the Tuscan horizon in an endless embrace I felt overcome with emotion as we sat down in a small patio near the front of her private residence, where we talked about the history of her family . 

Genuino del Duca

Claudia explained that ‘Podere Marcampo’ was born in 1971 when her father Genuino , having been promoted at work as a policeman, had moved from Abruzzo to Volterra and came up with the idea of transforming his passion for food and wine into a full time job. He wanted to create a new career in food and wine, so that he could resign from his day to day work as a policeman, and worked hard to make this dream come true! In the beginning it was not easy, though having climbed through the ranks at work in 2001 he was able to open a small inn in Saline, a small town near Volterra. By 2003 he had earned enough money to be able to open an exclusive restaurant in the center of Volterra, ‘Enoteca del Duca’ which is still running today! In 2005 he managed to buy ‘Marcampo’ a historic homestead, which had been abandoned though captured his heart as well as sparking his imagination. Genuino restored ‘Marcampo’ shortly afterwards transforming it into what ‘Podere Marcampo’ is today, an extraordinary holiday home as well as a farm and winery surrounded by four hectares of countryside, where to produce his wine he takes care of the best local grapes (Vermentino, Merlot, Sangiovese, Pugnitello and Ciliegiolo). Genuino  had to work hard to make his land suitable for wine growing because of the original salt and clay content of the soil. He had to plant the best rootstocks with roots to a maximum depth of 1 meter and having made sure that his preparation has been the best winemaking is now not so much of a challenge as more of an opportunity. Today, ‘Podere Marcampo’ is a real gem situated within the National Park known as ‘Le Balze’, a magical place where visitors can slow down and unwind. There is an outdoor swimming pool, a sunlit terrace, vineyards, gardens and imposing vistas of the Tuscan countryside encouraging guests to explore this modern wine country retreat, a corner of the world created for relaxation of body and soul with manicured cypress trees, sunflowers, olive groves and vineyards.

 

Podere Marcampo Tour

After a short walk through the vineyards Claudia explained the winemaking process starting with the working of the land to the bottling in the wine cellar and this for me was the best part of the tour.

In the tasting room I sampled high quality wines paired with homemade cured meats and local cheeses. ‘Podere Marcampo’ is completely handworked by Genuino and Claudia and is organic, completely free of any pesticides. A couple of million years ago this area lay at the bottom of the sea so the soil is rich in fossil shells and is characterised by a particular geology of sand, silt, clay and limestone which has been stable for centuries giving a complexity, structure and minerality to these well balanced wines. These are the best award winning labels I tasted:

‘Terrablu’: made from Vermentino and Malvasia the grapes are first processed by the modern technique of maceration in order to preserve all the aromas of the variety followed by four months of fermentation in temperature controlled stainless steel tanks. On the palate there are notes of lime, almond, green apple and white florals with a unique sense of refreshing acidity, its charm being in its delicate, briny nose and long, fresh palate;

‘Giusto alle Balze’: made from a careful and limited selection of 100% Merlot, vinified in stainless steel vats, then aged in oak barrels for 12 months the wine is then left to settle for another 6 months before bottling. It is my favourite wine because of its soft and sensual texture and approachable style being a velvety red wine that pairs well with the best Tuscan foods. This wine has won the Silver Medal at ‘Mondial du Merlot’ in Lugano and the ‘Concours Mondial Merlot’ in Brussels;

‘Severus’: made from a selection of 100% Sangiovese, vinified in stainless steel vats then aged in oak barrels for 12 months, this wine is then left to settle for another 12 months before bottling. Tasting of clove spice and cherries this wine is like drinking Christmas. It is also savoury providing a wide range of tastes from the very earthy and rustic to the rounded and red fruit;

‘Marcampo’: made from 50% Sangiovese and 50% Merlot, these two varieties are vinified separately in stainless steel vats and blended after 12 months in oak barrels. The wine is left to settle for another 6 months before being bottled. It is a powerful combination of the sweet, juicy, fruit flavors of Merlot and the rustic, sour-cherry tang of Sangiovese. It reminds me of a duet between a soprano and a bass as you can hear each one distinctly since they sing at different frequencies and the feeling is one of absolute pleasure;

‘Genuino’: made from 80% Sangiovese and 20% Merlot, these two varieties are vinified separately in stainless steel vats and then blended and bottled after 10 months. ‘Genuino’ is a medium bodied moderately tannic wine with a lovely cherry flavor which impresses with its ruby red, vinous though also fruity and floral, dry and firm taste.

From the start Genuino and Claudia make wines just as they envisage them. Their winemaking takes its course, the grapes being gently guided through a gentle process until they arrive at carefully selected barrels for resting, maturing and evolving. The more I meet the winemakers of Italy, the more I gain an appreciation for what is in my glass. Years of hard work, research and experimentation have gone into tending the vines to create a product that brings so much pleasure and joy to the palate.

Enoteca del Duca restaurant Volterra
Enoteca del Duca restaurant Volterra

L’Enoteca del Duca. Volterra

After our fantastic wine tasting, Genuino , Claudia and myself made our way down to ‘Enoteca del Duca’ their restaurant in the centre of Volterra. Genuino’s wife, Ivana runs this fine and intimate restaurant which is equipped with a terrific outdoor garden and excellent wine cellar housed in a historic building situated between the ‘acropolis’ and ‘Priori Square’

L ‘Enoteca del Duca’ offers gourmet cuisine and the menu changes according to the season and the availability of ingredients. My lunch there was really wonderful and the service impeccable. I tried their best wines along with the ‘burrata’ and vegetable soufflé as well as their home-made pasta in beef broth and their boar stew. The quality of food was outstanding, the ambience wonderfully inviting and the exquisite wine list to die for. When you go, ask to see their beautiful wine cellar which is packed with many unknown treasures! Genuino’s family form a perfect team when it comes to satisfying food and wine lovers. Claudia also organizes cooking classes at their farm demonstrating how to make fresh pasta or ‘focaccia’ whilst also allowing you to discover the secrets of homemade cake making all under the guidance of a professional Italian chef.

Volterra

It was time to go and I thanked Genuino and Claudia warmly for the wonderful memories they had provided me. They had made me feel at home and now I have yet another good reason to return to Volterra to be able to admire its considerable treasures.

Actually I am familiar with Volterra as three years ago I started working there as an English teacher. At the time it was really challenging having to go to Volterra every day from Pisa, considering that I was also attending a sommelier course in Lucca at the time though everything worked out well in the end and now I am really happy.I had enough time during this period to explore Volterra, a delightful, old hamlet full of history dating back to before 7BC with Etruscan, Roman and Medieval art and culture. The narrow streets are full of old are full of old churches, palaces, secret chapels, intimate restaurants and alabaster shops where you can watch artisans at work. Alabaster has long been a big industry in Volterra. Softer and easier to work than marble, this translucent material was traditionally thinly sliced to provide windows for Italy’s medieval churches. The best way to appreciate Volterra is to walk through its cobbled lanes, enjoying the beautiful ‘Palazzo dei Priori’, the Cathedral, the evocative ruins of the ‘Roman Amphitheater’ and the beautiful park dominated by the ‘Medicean Fortress’ with its ‘Rocca del Mastio’.

Other things to see in Volterra include:

The Alabaster Eco Museum’: Volterra has an ancient alabaster tradition. Art fans can watch sculptors at work and can purchase locally made alabaster in the studio shop;

The Etruscan Museum’: The museum is full of rare artefacts from centuries before Christ. There are decorated pot handles and crafted jewellery, the museum’s extensive collection of urns being a reminder that the Etruscans believed that the afterlife could be fun;

The Volterra City Museum and Art Gallery’: Housed in the ‘Minucci-Solaini Palace’, it contains the famous painting ‘The Deposition’ by Rosso Fiorentino;

• ‘Roman Cistern’: Located at the top of the hill by the ‘Medicean Fortress’, the it can be accessed by a winding iron staircase.

In recent years Volterra has attracted international recognition for its connection with the ‘Twilight’ series of books and movies, part of the second movie ‘New Moon’ being set in Volterra though most of the movie was actually filmed in another Tuscan town. More than 2000 years ago Volterra was a key trading center and one of the most important Etruscan cities and was protected by a wall four miles long, twice the length of the wall that encircles Volterra today. You can still see the mighty Etruscan gate, built from volcanic stone.

Tuscany is a pretty large region, and all of it is stunning. There is so much to see and do that I can’t suggest any particula good guide or website! But even in the short time I spent here, there’s so much to recommend to you I don’t even know where to start! It would be a good idea to enjoy any good wines here,  not just to drink them, but to experience the people, places, and cultures  . Even Bacchus, the god of wine, would envy a road trip through Tuscany’s wine heartlands, marveling at the most spectacular scenery on earth. To taste, drink and dine exceedingly well, this magical land has no peers. For who could resist the sumptuous, extravagantly green, the undulating farm fields that look like a painting, the twisty rural roads, the dreamy sunsets, and the circles of trees perched just so in resplendent tableaus? But it’s not just the culture, the art, the food, the wine, and the landscape. Beauty is in the DNA of Tuscans. The  Tuscans consider themselves the inheritors and stewards of a centuries-long legacy of beauty. Every tree that’s planted, every farmhouse that’s restored, every road that’s re-routed — it’s all carefully considered not only on practical or economic merits, but also on aesthetics. Get lost among  this huge amount of artistic wonders! 

Federici Winery. Lunigiana in a Glass

Federici Winery. Lunigiana in a Glass

“With Wine, Poetry, or Virtue, as you choose, but get Drunk!”
Charles Baudelaire

The Federici Winery. Lunigiana in a Glass

There is nothing like the regional products of a territory that can describe its history and culture. The fruits of the earth tell us how  people have shaped the landscape where they live. That is why visiting “Federici Winery” is a special way to discover Lunigiana, a mysterious land sandwiched between the Ligurian coastal towns of “Cinque Terre” and the Tuscan cities of Lucca and Pisa

On the 2nd November I visited the “Federici Winery” in Ortonovo, near the ancient ruins of Luni, the famous Roman port, where Roman merchant ships  used to transport precious Carrara marble along the Tyrrhenian Sea. Luca Federici welcomed me when I arrived at his wine cellar. He was ready to guide me through a tour of his  winery and dedicated his time to share with me the story of his family, his territory and his wines. Luca’s big smile warmed a rainy day, making me realise that if you do what you love, you never work a day in your life! 

Federici Family

Federici Family, a Story of vineyards and men

The Federici family, originally from Ortonovo  boast a long tradition of winemaking that has been handed down from father to son. It all started in 1985, when Giulio Federici and his wife Isa, the third generation of the family restored a country property in Lunigiana devoting themselves to cultivating the local grapes and to making quality wines. 

Luca, the oenoligist, and his brother Andrea, the sales and marketing manager, represent the fourth generation of the “Federici family,“. Today together they lead their business with passion, professionalism and with care for their territory. The best result of the Federici family‘s love for what they do is  of course one of my favourite wines, the so called Vermentino: a dry white wine that is sleek, tangy and even a little bit sexy. There are hundreds of white grape types planted throughout Italy,  though the Vermentino for me is really the best  This old variety grows well  here , because  the climate is mild , and because the vines are planted close to the sea. I’m crazy  about the elegance of the Vermentino as well as the , minerality and  saltiness in its finish, and pairing it  with the local cuisine specialities , such as seafood antipasti and pesto sauce, is something you have to experience once in your life! 

Federici Winery
Federici Winery

Federici Winery 

“Federici Winery” owes its name to the sun shining in the ancient Roman port of Luni. The archaeological site is still intact and just a couple of miles from the winery, and commemmorates the thousand year old tradition of winemaking in this area.

“Federici Winery” is located near La Spezia in far eastern Liguria nestling against the Apuan Alps (with peaks reaching almost 7,000ft  only 5 km from the sea) and the river plain of the River Magra. This privileged position  provides an incredible microclimate, where the action of sea and mountain breeze, alternating between day and night, creates optimal  conditions for growing vines and producing wines of excellence. Here the soil in the valley is of an alluvial and sandy  nature with leaner clay on the hills. That is how the Federicis can experiment  different varieties of the Vermentino producing completely different taste profiles in the vineyard, along with other local (Albarola, Sangiovese, Canaiolo, Ciliegiolo) and international grapes (Syrah, Merlot). Harvest usually starts  towards the end of  August and the beginning of September . Grape picking is one of the most important phases of work for the Federicis and is entirely done by hand just like it used to be when the winery was first set up.

Federici Family, from father to son

The “Federici Winery is a key player in the local economy and has the objective to constantly work to enhance the quality of its wines. The winery extends over  around 25 hectares with vineyards in prized locations both on the hillside and on the plain. The winery buys hand-harvested grapes from other small growers in the surrounding countryside paying for qualit, and  keeping alive both tradition and wine culture. The winery produces 200.000 bottles a year, including  whites, reds, rosé, sparkling wines, sweet wines and grappa.

Federici Family
Federici Estate

The Federicis invested a lot of money in the new winery in 2015, which now covers 1600 square metres and it is equipped with  state of the art technology, such as a special isobaric bottling system, which ensures  optimal care in the packaging of the wine . Moreover, the winery follows  bio-architectural principles in order to  reduce  the impact on the environment as well as maximise energy savings. The beautiful underground cellar, where the wines rest for their final refinement, is a perfect example of the  harmony that exists between the buildings and nature. The cellar is situated around a hundred metres below sea level, which helps harness the natural stability of temperature and humidity provided by the  presence of an underground aquifer. All this is further supported by constant control of every stage of the production process thanks to ecological  solutions in the wine cellar such as solar panels, natural ventilation and the use of wood, stone and brick. The Federicis are very proud of their magical reign and passion and patience and experience are key words of their philosophy.  For them viticulture is a family tradition, and their care for the environment, the climate, the vineyards and  their employees produces matchless wines, whose  flavour reflect the beauty of their terroir

Luca Federici

Federici  Wine Tasting 

Wine tasting in “Federici Winery” is an intimate and personal experience. The tasting room  is very  large, decorated with frescos and has two magnificent handmade chandeliers the design of which has been inspired by nature. Luca took me through his line of biological  wines and demonstrated the quality of his best bottles of wine by pouring me a glass of their Vermentino. He  is proud of his wines with good reason and I sipped through his wines with pleasure.  All showed great character and depth as well as a softness you rarely see with natural wines. They seemed stable, substantial and yet so expressively honest. Luca explained how the ideal climate for their white wines exists in the “Colli di Luni DOC Area”: “ During the day there is superb ventilation and optimal  exposure to the sun whilst the evenings are fresh and humid, always with moderate temperatures whether it be winter or summer.

Federici‘s  vineyards are situated within two to three miles of the sea, and here are the three versions of  the their  best wines made from 100 % Vermentino

I learned a lot about Vermentino thanks to Luca. The best Vermentino is medium-bodied, fresh and quite round, with a floral aftertaste, and its freshness is the result of the natural, lively acidity of the grape itself which provides balance as well as a marvellous affinity for pairing with a variety of foods. Vermentino grows not only in Liguria, but also in Sardinia and Tuscany, and in each of these three territories, the vineyards are very close to the sea,  giving the wines a special character that you don’t find in wines from vineyards in a warmer, inland area. Vermentino from a maritime climate tends to display a great minerality or saltiness in the finish. Vermentino is one of the most important varieties in Liguria, along with another white known as “Pigato“.

Federici Wines
Federici Wines

Lunigiana is one of the smallest region in Italy, but its white wines are among the most distinctive, like the other three wines I sipped at the “Federici Winery :

Lunigiana
Lunigiana

If you are a wine lover or a wine expert, Lunigiana could be your perfect upcoming destination.

Lunigiana, in north west Tuscany, has a lot to offer. It is a location to be enjoyed all year round, and above all it is easy to get to via flights to either Pisa or Genoa.  The wine region of Lunigiana is very beautiful, with vineyards on rocky  hillsides that  overlook the sea as well as vineyards higher up in the valleys  and small narrow roads that meander up amongst the vineyards.   With such a large number of grape varieties unique to Lunigiana, this can lead to some confusion though doing research before visiting and wine tasting in such a picturesque region is worthwhile. Lunigiana is also dotted with numerous stunning medieval villages and  is a pearl amongst the other international  and aristocratic hamlets  along the zone of the  “Riviera Ligure di Levante”, such as  Portofino, “Cinque Terre”, and the “Gulf of Poets”. Lunigiana lies between the northern Appennines, the “Versilian Plan”, and the “Gulf of la Spezia” and has real rural character as well as castles, Romanesque churches, and  old towns full scenes of rare beauty starting with Luni and Sarzana.

Luni

Luni  the ancient Roman port which gives the name to Lunigiana Luni is surrounded by a valley called “Val di Magra” in the Montemarcello Magra Park”, which extends from inland Liguria up to the Gulf of Poets. Points of interest include the remains of an Roman Amphitheatre (1st century AD) and the Archaeological Museum.

Sarzana, piazza Calandrini
Sarzana, piazza Calandrini

Some are born in Sarzana and love it for life, others choose Sarzana as their place. The latter seems to be the case with the family Bonaparte, who were welcomed there in exile and from  where they left to conquer the world. The Bonaparte family left an important witness to their presence in the form of the “Bonaparte Tower House”, which is located in the first section of the “Via Mazzini”, a few steps away from the ancient church of “Sant’Andrea”. Sarzana is a quiet city, tourists don’t go there much. You might peek into some of the antique shops in the historic centre, or into the terrific  main square “Piazza Matteotti” . There are many restaurants in Sarzana, and all of them are good. It’s like the town is waiting for tourists who seldom come.  Sarzana has two nice castles:  ” Cittadella Fortezza Firmafede”, which is right on the northeast border of the old town, and the “Fortezza di Sarzanello”, which is just north of town. It also has a fine Romanesque/Gothic cathedral, the Santa Maria Assunta Cathedral”.

Federici Wines are perfect for each moment of your Life
Federici Wines are perfect for each moment of your Life

Save your appetite my friends . Stay thirsty. Passion and humility create balance in the heart and balance in the glass. Luca knows this and you can see it in his eyes and taste it in his wines.

Alla vostra!
Enjoy it!
Stefania!

 

 

 

 

 

Tenute Delogu, Alghero

Tenute Delogu, Alghero

“Faremo scherzi al vento,  lo chiuderemo in una stanza,
ma promettiamo di liberarlo , se ci aiuterà a volare” 
P. Marras

Alghero

Andare ad  Alghero, è come essere in “compagnia di uno straniero” , parafrasando una famosa canzone di Juni Russo : ti innamori e hai voglia di ritornarci! A Luglio, in  meno di un’ora di volo da Pisa, attero per la seconda volta ad Alghero, per riprendermi il cuore lasciato in questo gioiello incastonato nella “Riviera del Corallo” a  Nord Ovest della Sardegna . Ancora ebbra dei paesaggi, della gente, dei colori, degli odori, e del vino,  sorseggiando un calice di Chelos, vi racconto una bella  storia: Alghero in un bicchiere! 

Piero  le Tenute  e i Vini Delogu

Piero Delogu  viene a prendermi all’aeroporto di Fertilia Alghero . In pochi minuti  raggiungiamo il  suo splendido Wine Resort le  “Tenute Delogudove ci aspetta il figlio Lorenzo, per continuare una chiacchierata tra amici iniziata con Valeria Crabuzza, manager di “Alghero Conciergie”, all’hotel Carlos V di Alghero , in occasione di una degustazione dei vini d’eccellenza dell’inesauribile imprenditore sardo.

Piero , classe 1962, nasce a Ittiri , Sassari, inizia la sua carriera lavorativa alla fine degli anni Ottanta.  Partendo da zero, Piero si dedica alla produzione di  impianti all’avanguardia di mungitura degli ovini. Nel giro di pochi anni raggiunge un grande successo e reinveste quanto guadagnato nella realizzazione dell’azienda “Carpenterie Metalliche” (attività di progettazione sviluppo e realizzazione di strutture in profilati di acciaio), nell’acquisto di dieci ettari di zona industriale e nella costruzione di appartamenti da rivendere a Olmedo. Questi sono alcuni dei  capitoli della vita di Piero, raccontanti  con un gran sorriso lungo un tragitto in macchina verso la  sua elegante bottaia, e i primi di un libro che hanno poi per protagonista la  passione di famiglia: il vino. Il salto dalla realtà al cinema, per narrare con ironia delle gioie e dei dolori di una cantina vinicola sarda è in “Bianco di Babbudoiuou”.  Si tratta di un film comico del 2016,  girato in parte nelle “Tenute Delogu” , diretto da Igor Biddau , con l’esordio cinematografico del trio comico Pino & gli anticorpi e la partecipazione della esotica Caterina Murino. Tutto ‘made in Sassari’ !

Nel 2004 nasce “Tenute Delogu” : da 5  ettari di superficie vitata sotto il  Nuraghe di Palmavera a 20 nel 2008 tra le campagne dorate e pianeggianti  della Nurra e il mare crsitallino di Alghero, la cui brezza soffia gentile in una zona dove la coltivazione della vite è una tradizione dai tempi dei tempi. Si tratta di un terreno con caratteristiche uniche per la viticoltura, con i suoi inverni miti ed estati ventilate.  Ed è proprio in questo territorio, fatto di argille rosse, calcare e ricco in minerali, che si adagiano i filari (allevamento Guyot) di Vermentino, Cannonau, Cagnulari, Merlot, Cabernet e Syrah. Vitigni autoctoni e internazionali di grande pregio che Piero cura personalmente insieme al giovane enologo Antonio Puddu e la consulenza esterna di Piero Cella ( della scuola di Tachis!) .

Un patrimonio straordinario e Piero ne ha subito  capito il valore e lo ha lavorato con amore: l’attaccamento alla sua Terra, il suo  instancabile lavoro e quello dei suoi preziosi collaboratori sono racchiusi nei suoi vini e nei  nomi delle 6 etichette dell’azienda vinicola (circa 100 mila bottiglie annue): “Ego”, Cannonau in purezza, “Geo” riuscitissimo blend di Cannonau, Cabernet e Syrah, “Cagnulari” pregiato vitigno autoctono,  “Ide” Vermentino maturato in botti per un anno, “Die” Vermentino di Sardegna DOC,“Chelos” spumante di Vermentino e Chardonnay (Metodo Charmat).

7 giorni in Paradiso: Tenute Delogu

Piero e Lorenzo mi accolgono come se fossi di famiglia. La mia vacanza  inizia sotto un sole cocente di Luglio nell’orto delle “Tenute Delogu”, ettari di terra in cui sono coltivati e allevati  tutti i loro prodotti a km 0!

Allievo la calura estiva con  una doccia fredda nella mia camera “il Grappolo”, arredata con gusto e dotata di tutti i comfort, un tuffo nella magnifica  piscina tra palme e cicas ed è ora di cena. Mi incammino attraverso un percorso di fiori e statue in pietra.  Una luna gigante e il sottofondo delle cicale mi accompagnano fino al ristorante della “Tenute Delogu”, composto da una sala interna ed una esterna su prato, una  location immersa nel verde alle quali fanno da cornice delle scenografiche cascate. Conosco Vincenzo il cuoco, un signore gentile, che mi anticipa il menù della cena, senza svelarmi però i segreti della sua cucina. La tradizione sarda in tavola, tra vini superbi e tavoli sapientemente imbanditi: antipasti di verdure, gnocchetti sardi e  ‘culurgiònes’  (gnocchi di patate con formaggio e menta) al sugo di pomodoro fresco, basilico e pecorino, ‘porcheddu’ con patate, e in fine il mirto ! Piero e Lorenzo mi guardano con aria soddisfatta, perché faccio fuori tutto compiaciuta! Si fa tardi e gli ospiti della sala tornano a casa loro con un’aria leggera di chi è stato bene. Piero e Lorenzo continuano il romanzo della loro vita. Passione, costanza, perseveranza,  duro lavoro, attaccamento alla terra, rispetto delle tradizioni,  modernizzazione strutture aziendali, amore per la gente: gli ingredienti del loro successo. Incredula di quanta bellezza ci sia in ogni gesto loro, mi sento per un attimo come la protagonista di una favola, in cui c’è sempre qualcuno che ti fa felice, protegge e ti mette prima di ogni altra cosa, fosse anche la più urgente. L’attenzione ai dettagli fa la differenza e io l’ho provato sulla mia pelle! Ascolto con grande ammirazione un padre e un figlio che portano avanti il loro progetto di vita , e con molta naturalezza mi rendono partecipe di questa gioia tra una telefonata e l’altra, mille pensieri per iniziare la giornata a seguire, compreso il mio tour ! Non ho con me un orologio, e la sveglia per alzarmi  la mattina alle “Tenute Delogu” non serve. Apro la finestra e davanti a me lo spettacolo in prima fila di una natura rigogliosa. Colazione, e giro per le tenute: parcheggio  molto ampio, spazi immensi costellati da due blocchi di appartamenti nuovi del residence,  cantina e  vigneti. Cerco un po’  d’ombra e la trovo sotto una folta  bouganvillea , leggo la mia guida sulla Sardegna e sogno di percorrere  tutta la costa Nord Occidentale , perché la posizione della tenuta a tal proposito è strategica. Seguitemi!

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  • Pranzo con famiglia sarda:  patrimonio dell’UNESCO! Piero conosce tutti ed è di casa ovunque! Non riesco a non divorare spaghetti al tonno con gamberi freschi, parago con patate, insalata di polpo, tre tipi di formaggio,  “casu marzu” compreso, e vassoi di dolci infiniti!
  • Bombarde, Spiagge: un chilometro di sabbia finissima affacciata su un mare azzurro, rallegrato  dalla dolcissima Annapaola, che prepara le cozze cotte al carbone nel suo lido. Indimenticabile;
  • Stintino:  il profumo della salsedine si respira da lontano  e fa venir voglia di tuffarti a mare. Un mare, quello di Stintino, che una volta scoperto, assaporato e vissuto, non ti lascia più!
  • La Pelosauna spiaggia tropicale  con un mare turchese sul  Golfo dell’ Asinara; 
  • Cala Mugoni: a ridosso di una pineta si trova questa baia di sabbia bianca calda e mare blu , nei pressi di Porto Conte;
  • Fertilia: fondata nel 1933 con lo scopo di diventare il centro economico amministrativo di tutta la zona rurale della Nurra di Alghero, colpisce per la sua terrazza severa  prospiciente un porticciolo;
  • Sugheria di Suni: piccolo centro in provincia di Oristano, noto per la produzione di sughero e malvasia;
  • Bosa: un incantevole e affascinante borgo mediterraneo fatto di case colorate, dove tradizione e modernità si fondono;
  • Alghero:  catalana, superba e altezzosa che ti abbraccia e non si fa scordare con i suoi paesaggi mozzafiato, le strette viuzze piene di storia, e un mare tra i più belli che abbia mai visto;
  • Ristorante “Sa Mesa” ad Alghero: per capire ed assaporare in fondo il meglio della Enogastronomia Sarda, con  una cucina tipica rivisitata e  la ricerca dei migliori prodotti locali.

L’unico rimpianto quello di non cogliere i segni del destino, del  mio volo di ritorno cancellato per i soliti disagi della Ryanair . Riparto per la Toscana. Qualcuno forse vuole che rimanga  più a lungo ad Alghero e alle “Tenute Delogu”. Quel fine settimana mi perdo il concerto dal vivo di Piero Marras , un famoso cantautore sardo,  in occasione dei suoi 40 anni di carriera, un grande artista a cui Piero, dedica una Magnum di Geo , come fa  anche con il gruppo dei  Tazendas. E insieme ai musicisti e i poeti,  Piero canta della sua Sardegna attraverso l’Arte del suo Vino.

Grazie Piero &  Lorenzo

Enjoy it! 

Stefania