‘Podere Marcampo’ winery, Volterra, Tuscany

‘Podere Marcampo’ winery, Volterra, Tuscany

“Accept what life offers you and try to drink from every cup. All wines should be tasted; some should only be sipped, but with others, drink the whole bottle.”

Paulo Coelho

‘Podere Marcampo winery , Volterra, Tuscany

Six years ago two things happened to change my life. First of all, I fell in love with Tuscany , and then I became a sommelier. These were the starting points allowing me to discover the hidden delights of the wine of Pisa . Its area is a charming sun kissed land, stretching from the hills to the sea, blessed by God, as beautiful as unexpected!

Wine runs deep in the veins of Tuscany, being woven into the cultural identity of this central Italian paradise. The wines of Pisa are synonymous with excellence thanks to the efforts of many skilled professionals.

Follow me reading my post about ‘Podere Marcampo winery’ , which is one of the most rappresentative wine enterprise  in Pisa. You’ll discover hidden treasure in the hills of Pisa.

‘Podere Marcampo Winery’ , the jewellery of the hills of Pisa

‘Podere Marcampo winery’ is one of the most important wine business  in the hills of Pisa.  ‘The hills of Pisa’ is not only a ‘DOC label’ , but also a ‘wine road’ , playing an increasingly important role in wine production in Tuscany . It’s  on the rise only recently , starting to get the recognition that is deserves.

‘The hills of Pisa’ meanders through the hills of the valley of the Era River and the lower part of the Arno Valley crossing a territory with traditions dating back to the time of the Etruscans.

‘Podere Marcampo winery’ is green! 

If you head towards this entrancing place you will be greeted by an environment almost untouched by modernity . It ranges from picturesque scenery of mesmerising color set amongst the trees to places, where wine and oil are still cultivated and produced in the traditional way.

‘Podere Marcampo winery’  is an organic biodynamic wine estate which reflects all the beauty and wine production potential of the ‘the hills of Pisa’

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Claudia del Duca, the woman of the wine at ‘Podere Marcampo winery’

In February the first time I sipped the elegant wines of   ‘Podere Marcampo winery’   at ‘Terre di Toscana’. This was  a wine exhibition , which took place at the ‘Luna Hotel’ in Viarreggio. Claudia Del Duca, the owner of ‘Podere Marcampo winery’, invited me to visit her estate in Volterra.

Claudia was very friendly and  professional . What impressed me the most about her was her dedication to her work , and her love for wine,  which she  shared with her parents Genuino and Ivana del Duca.

A wonderful experience at ‘Podere Marcampo winery’

So, I arrived at ‘Podere Marcampo winery’ on a rainy day in late November in  ‘Podere Marcampo winery’  . It’ s a family farm business, which is surrounded by lush and verdant countryside. It produces both excellent and also rare red and white wines, extra virgin olive oil and grappa.

Claudia welcomed me with a big smile. Looking at this scene where sky and sea converge at the Tuscan horizon in an endless embrace, I felt overcome with emotion. We sat down in a small patio near the front of a  private residence, where we talked about the history of the whole family .

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Genuino del Duca, the man of the wine at ‘Podere Marcampo Winery

Claudia explained that ‘Podere Marcampo winery’  was born in 1971 , when her father Genuino del Duca , having been promoted at work as a policeman, had moved from Abruzzo to Volterra . Then he  came up with the idea of transforming his passion for food and wine into a full time job.

Actually, Genuino del Duca wanted to create a new career in food and wine, so that he could resign from his day to day work as a policeman, and worked hard to make this dream come true! In the beginning it was not easy.  Though having climbed through the ranks at work , in 2001 he was able to open a small inn in Saline, a small town near Volterra.

The history of ‘Podere Marcampo winery’

By 2003 Genuino del Duca had earned enough money to open ‘Enoteca del Duca’, which is an exclusive restaurant in the center of Volterra. In 2005 he managed to buy ‘Marcampo’ a historic homestead, which had been abandoned though captured his heart as well as sparking his imagination.

Genuino del Duca restored ‘Marcampo’ shortly afterwards transforming it into what ‘Podere Marcampo winery’   is today! That is  an extraordinary holiday home , as well as a farm and winery, which is surrounded by 4 hectares of land.  Here he  takes care of his  best local grapes:

Genuino del Duca and his passion for wine 

Genuino  had to work hard to make his land suitable for wine growing because of the original salt and clay content of the soil. He had to plant the best rootstocks with roots to a maximum depth of 1 meter and did a lot for being successful.

Today, ‘Podere Marcampo winery’  is a real gem situated within a  national park known as ‘Le Balze’, which is a magical place where visitors can slow down and unwind. At ‘Podere Marcampo winery’ there are:

  • an outdoor swimming pool;
  • a sunlit terrace;
  • vineyards;
  • gardens;
  • olives tree

A tour at ‘Podere Marcampo Winery’

After a short walk through the vineyards Claudia explained the winemaking process starting with the working of the land to the bottling in the wine cellar and this for me was the best part of the tour.

In the tasting room I sampled high quality wines paired with homemade cured meats and local cheeses. ‘Podere Marcampo winery’  is completely hand worked by Genuino and Claudia and is organic, completely free of any pesticides.

A couple of million years ago this area lay at the bottom of the sea . That’s why  the soil is rich in fossil shells , and is characterised by a particular geology of sand, silt, clay and limestone . They have been stable for centuries giving a complexity, structure and minerality to these well balanced wines.

The wines of  ‘Podere Marcampo winery’

These are the best award winning labels I tasted:

‘Terrablu’: It’s a white wine made from Vermentino and Malvasia . The grapes are first processed by the modern technique of maceration in order to preserve all the aromas of the variety . There are four months of fermentation in temperature controlled stainless steel tanks. On the palate there are notes of lime, almond, green apple and white florals , with a unique sense of refreshing acidity, its charm being in its delicate, briny nose and long, fresh palate;

‘Giusto alle Balze’: It’s a red wine made from 100% Merlot. It’s vinified in stainless steel vats, then aged in oak barrels for 12 months. It’s left to settle for another 6 months before bottling. It is my favourite wine , because of its soft and sensual texture and approachable style. This wine has won the silver medal at ‘Mondial du Merlot’ in Lugano and the ‘Concours Mondial Merlot’ in Brussels;

‘Severus’: It’s a red wine made from a selection of 100% Sangiovese. It’ s  vinified in stainless steel vats then aged in oak barrels for 12 months.  This wine is  left to settle for another 12 months before bottling. Tasting of clove spice and cherries ,  it’s also savoury,  providing a wide range of tastes from the very earthy and rustic to the rounded and red fruit;

‘Marcampo’: It’s a red wine made from 50% Sangiovese and 50% Merlot.  These two varieties are vinified separately in stainless steel vats and blended after 12 months in oak barrels. The wine is left to settle for another 6 months before being bottled. It is a powerful combination of the sweet, juicy, fruit flavours of Merlot, and the rustic, sour-cherry tang of Sangiovese;

‘Genuino’: It’s a red wine made from 80% Sangiovese and 20% Merlot.  These two varieties are vinified separately in stainless steel vats and then blended and bottled after 10 months. It’s a medium bodied moderately tannic wine , with a lovely cherry flavour, which impresses with its ruby red, vinous though also fruity and floral, dry and firm taste.

From the start Genuino and Claudia make wines just as they envisage them. Their winemaking takes its course, the grapes being gently guided through a gentle process until they arrive at carefully selected barrels for resting, maturing and evolving.

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The restaurant ‘Enoteca del Duca’ in  Volterra

After our fantastic wine tasting, Genuino , Claudia and myself made our way down to the ‘Enoteca del Duca , whic is their restaurant in the centre of Volterra. Genuino’s wife, Ivana runs this fine and intimate restaurant , which is equipped with a terrific outdoor garden and excellent wine cellar housed in a historic building situated  in  ‘Priori Square’

‘Enoteca del Duca offers a special kind of  gourmet cuisine . Its  menu changes according to the season and the availability of ingredients. My lunch   was really wonderful and the service impeccable. I tried their best wines along with their home-made pasta in beef broth and their boar stew.

Wine and food of top quality!

The quality of wine and food was outstanding, the ambience wonderfully inviting . When you go, ask to see their beautiful wine cellar , which is packed with many unknown treasures! Genuino’s family form a perfect team when it comes to satisfying food and wine lovers.

Claudia also organizes cooking classes at their farm demonstrating how to make fresh pasta or ‘focaccia’ whilst also allowing you to discover the secrets of homemade cake making all under the guidance of a professional Italian chef.

Volterra, amazing city in Tuscany

I thanked Genuino and Claudia warmly for the wonderful memories they had provided me. They had made me feel at home . Before going back to Pisa, it was a good idea to explore Volterra,because there is lot of things to see and to do!

The history of Volterra

Volterra is a delightful  medieval town . I think it well deserves a place in this list of the best towns of Tuscany . Its narrow streets are full of  old churches, palaces, secret chapels, intimate restaurants and alabaster shops , where you can watch artisans at work.

Alabaster has long been a big industry in Volterra. Softer and easier to work than marble, this translucent material was traditionally thinly sliced to provide windows for Italy’s medieval churches.

What to see in Volterra

The best way to appreciate Volterra is to walk through its cobbled lanes, enjoying :

3 things to visit in Volterra 

Other things to visit in Volterra include:

  1. The Alabaster Museum’: This museum is housed in the 13th-century Minucci Towers’. It boasts the ancient alabaster tradition of  Volterra has an . Art fans can watch sculptors at work and can purchase locally made alabaster in the studio shop;
  2. The Guarnacci  Museum‘: It houses the world’s largest collection of Etruscan funerary urns,  used to collect the ashes of the dead;
  3. Roman Cistern’: It’s located at the top of the hill by the ‘Medicean Fortress’The cistern, made of opus caementicium, had to supply the whole area of the ‘acropolis’ with water. It’s formed by a large rectangular room divided into three naves covered with a barrel vault with six pillars in stone blocks. The entire building can be dated to the first century. d. C. and for its capacity, which is about 1000 cubic meters, must have been built with public money.

Famous films set in Volterra

In recent years Volterra  has attracted international recognition for its connection with the ‘Twilight’ series of books and movies, part of the second movie ‘New Moon’ being set in Volterra though most of the movie was actually filmed in another Tuscan town.

More than 2000 years ago Volterra was a key trading center and one of the most important Etruscan cities and was protected by a wall four miles long, twice the length of the wall that encircles Volterra today. You can still see the mighty Etruscan gate, built from volcanic stone.

Bye Bye Volterra! 

Tuscany is a pretty large region, and all of it is stunning. There is so much to see and do that I can’t suggest any particular good guide or website! But even in the short time I spent here, there’s so much to recommend to you I don’t even know where to start!

It would be a good idea to enjoy any good wines in Tuscany ,  not just to drink them, but to experience  people, places, and cultures . The  Tuscans consider themselves the inheritors and stewards of a centuries-long legacy of beauty.

Every tree that’s planted, every farmhouse that’s restored, every road that’s re-routed — it’s all carefully considered not only on practical or economic merits, but also on aesthetics. Get lost among  this huge amount of artistic wonders!

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Fibbiano winery and the wines of the hills of Pisa

Fibbiano winery and the wines of the hills of Pisa

‘A bottle of wine contains more philosophy than all the books in the world’

Louis Pasteur

The wines of Pisa hills

If you’ve just booked  an holiday in the magic  Tuscany,  you’ll soon be wondering: “what wines should I drink when I’m there?”. Surely,  one can answer  the wines of  ‘Chianti’ !

The wines of ‘ Chianti’ are really popular indeed. They come from the valleys between the great Tuscan Renaissance cities of Siena and Florence . Exactly here for a thousand years the landscape is made up of an unchanged medieval tapestry of woodlands, olive groves and cypress trees, all guarded by magnificent aristocratic villas.

What you should  know is that    Tuscany boasts other different and dynamic zones. One of these is for example  the rolling hills of Pisa and its province, namely the  ‘Terre di Pisa D.O.C.’ , which was founded in 2011!

Since then,  15 wineries have been enhancing  the quality of the wine production of Pisa and its province, promoting the wine appellations of ‘ Terre di Pisa Sangioveseand ‘Terre di Pisa Rosso’  in the international markets.

‘Terre di Pisa’ , a new project for a better tourism in Pisa

On the 6th December 2018 I attended a conference press at  the ‘Chamber of Commerce of Pisa’. It was hold in order to launch the project of ‘Terre di Pisa . What about it? It’ is the new tourist brand  for promoting  the cultural heritage  of  Pisa and its wine making tradition .  It counts about 460 members, including  ‘WeLoveItaly.eu’ as well!

On that occasion, I met Nicola Cantoni , the moderator of that event. Nicola has a handshake you remember. One quickly understands Nicola as a winemaker committed to what is important in the Tuscan winemaking tradition. But guess what!

Nicola is the owner of ‘Fibbiano winery”‘, which belongs to the 15 wineries  representing the excellence of wines produced in the territory of Pisa and its province . In a word, Nicola invited me to visit his winery, giving me the possibility to experience the renaissance of the wine  of  Pisa and its province. Thus I will be always  grateful for that!

Consortium  of the wines of Pisa’, an important wine community of Pisa and its province

While attending the press conference about ‘Terre di Pisa‘,  I found out that Nicola is not only a talented winemaker , but also  president of the  Consortium  of the wines of Pisa’ This  wine committee  was founded in 2018 to :

With the sunny season approaching fast, It was time for me  to plan my visit  at ‘Fibbiano winery’. But, It was quite impossible to fix a date for me  with  Nicola , being always busy for his job  ! Suddenly, his brother  Matteo Cantoni was the perfect solution to the problem! Fortunately, Matteo  was free to welcome me at ‘Fibbiano winery’   with open arms!

‘Fibbiano Winery’. How to make high quality wines in Pisa and its province

Lucky me! During a a weekend in March, I decided to came up at ‘Fibbiano winery’, which is home to  a terrific  modern winery and  an enchanting farmhouse. This enchanting estate is located at n. 2 via Fibbiano , in the municipality of Terricciola. This is a stunning  part of Tuscany, which is called the Era Valley (between  Pisa and Volterra). This enchanting territory is fast becoming an essential reference point for Tuscan wine, indeed for Italian wine. 

As I arrived at ‘Fibbiano winery Matteo  greeted me with a friendly smile . To begin with, Matteo was very kind with me. I had my interview with him about his farmhouse together with an exclusive wine tasting of their best wine labels. First Matteo told me all about the history of his family. 

Then I visited the cellar and the vineyards of the ‘Fibbiano winery. Finally,  I had my great wine tasting in a enchanting wine cellar.

The history of  ‘Fibbiano winery’ 

In 1997 Giuseppe Cantoni, with his wife Tiziana and sons Matteo and Nicola, moved from  Lombardy to Tuscany. They were looking for  a successful  wine making business living a life far away from the noise of the city and close to nature.

Therefore, they purchased a  medieval villa at that time, that belonged to the noble family Gherardi del Testa Barasaglia in the 12th century . They  renovated it all and turned it into what ‘Fibbiano winery is today, a thriving agricultural entrepreneurship.

An adventure from the North to the South

Their adventure from North Italy in Tuscany  was not only the result of a  desire to search for  their el dorado, but  also  a sign of destiny printed in one of their first  label Fonte delle Donne’  .  This exquisite white wine is made from Colombana, an old grape that grew spontaneously around a miraculous water source near the estate.

According to tradition, the Colombana grape was introduced by San Columbanus ‘ followers in the 17th century , when these famous Irish abbots decided to settle here living behind their Milan area. Upon their arrival in their estate, Cantoni Family realized they were not the only foreigners who fell  in love with Tuscany,  finding  the right place where to be !

Bringing to light  the old farmstead was not easy, but all that work  devoted to transform an old ruin into a jewellery was fully rewarded, as Cantoni Family carries on a prospering farming activity today, respecting land and the local traditions. Giuseppe, the father, deals with the general management of the middle age estate and takes care of the vineyards and countryside. Matteo, the eldest of the two sons, is in charge of marketing the wines and his brother, Nicola, is the winemaker .

The grapes of ‘Fibbiano winery’

Fibbiano’s philosophy is to continue on this thread of culture and tradition, cultivating indigenous grape varieties, such as Sangiovese, Canaiolo, Ciliegiolo, ColorinoS. Colombana, and Vermentino ,  instead of more international grapes. Fattoria di Fibbiano extends over an area of about 20 hectares of vineyards, 5 hectares of olive groves, 12 hectares of woodland and the rest is arable land.

Some vineyards (around 2.5 hectares) are over 100 years old and 17.5 hectares are up to 20 years old. This  mixture of old vines and new vines  keeps the vineyard alive, with red grapes planted on the top of the hill, and white grapes on the lower parts.  Due to Fibbiano‘s proximity to the Mediterranean and Ligurian seas, the soil originates from the sea and is rich in fossil shells from the pliocene epoch, and medium-textured corals .

In terms of climate, this part of Tuscany has warm sea breezes during the day and cooler nights, which helps the grapes to retain acidity and develop flavour. This particular terroir provides to complex wines with a certain minerality,  and aging capability.

‘Fibbiano winery’ is green!

I appreciated a lot of things, above all that ‘Fibbiano winery  is certified organic. Their practices, farming and wine-growing methods are truly natural. They even use  their own wood for central heating. Further, this sustainable winery uses a solar plant to conserve energy and produce fresh water.

They are always ready  to face new challenges, not least of which  exporting 80% of their wine to the following countries: United States, Canada, Norway, Ireland, Germany, Austria, Switzerland, China, Russia, Malaysia, Singapore, Japan, Taiwan, Lebanon, Mexico.

The wines of ‘Fibbiano winery’

The best part of this incredible life experience was my top wine tasting. I was led to a lovely wine bar with a large wooden table full with  Fibbiano  Best Wines and platters of Tuscan salami, pecorino and bread.  I sampled 6 different Wines, guided by Matteo who talked me through what I was enjoying, from the colour/appearance, the bouquet/smell and then the flavour.

Each wine was different, but wonderful in its own way.  I tried red and white wines, but the majority of the ones I  tried were red. Most of them are  made from the Sangiovese grapes and some are mixed with other grapes to produce  new fantastic blends.

White and rosé

Red wines

  • ‘Le Pianette IGT Toscana’ : This is a 70% Sangiovese and 30% Colorino wine;  It  is aged for 6 months in barrels of Slavonian oak and 3 months in bottle;
  • ‘Casalini Chianti Superiore DOCG’ : This is an 80% Sangiovese and 20% Ciliegiolo wine. It is aged for 8 months in barrels of Slavonian oak and 3 months in bottle. It has the typical notes of cherry . It is  a well-structured wine with smooth tannins;
  • ‘Aspetto IGT Toscana’ :  This is a 50% Sangiovese and 50% Canaiolo wine. It is aged for 12 months in tonneaux, 6 months in cement tanks, and 6 months in bottle. This is an intense ruby red wine with notes of mature red fruit and spices;
  • ‘Ceppatella IGT Toscana’ : This is a 100% Sangiovese wine, which is made with grapes selected from the oldest vineyard of the estate – it’s a 120 years old vineyard . It is a wine aged for 6 months in tonneaux , 14 months in barrels of Slavonian oak, and 5 months in bottle. It has notes of marmalade, spices, tobacco, and cacao and a long persistence.

Matteo entertained me happily and answered all my questions  by sharing  the secrets of their quality wines: “Sun, soil and patience”!

The wine of Pisa hills

‘Fibbiano wineryoffers up a bunch of very tasty wines for wine lovers and experts to experience. It is situated predominantly in the wine trail of the Pisa hills, an itinerary through the Tuscan countryside, which highlights many small towns that boast great traditions. It’s an area between Pisa and Volterra, and it  extends in the vicinity of the Arno, Egola and Elsa rivers. It embraces  stunning landscapes and places, such as  Casciana Terme, Capannoli, Chianni, Crespina, Lari, Palaia, Ponsacco, Terricciola, Cascina, Collesalvetti, Fauglia, Laiatico, Lorenzana, Montopoli Valdarno, Peccioli, Pontedera, Santa Luce, San Miniato and Collesalvetti .

The rolling hills of Pisa  gives birth to top red & white wines:

‘Fibbiano winery’ ,  the essence of the wine tradition in Pisa

Like other talented wine producers within  this zone , ‘Fibbiano winery’ is an example  of Pisa’s great winemaking potential, that is  only to be revealed in all its splendour.  I am feeling optimistic that this area is set to receive long overdue attention. Matteo was an excellent guide and wine educator

It was so natural for him to explain all that concerned his farm and how wine is made from grapes to wine. His passionate wine tasting remains for a long time among my memory . I am eager  to learn much more about the super wines of Pisa, that’s why another visit to ‘Fibbiano winery’ will be a must!

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