‘Podere Marcampo’ winery, Volterra, Tuscany

Posted on February 23, 2020May 10, 2022 by Stefania Tardino

“Accept what life offers you and try to drink from every cup. All wines should be tasted; some should only be sipped, but with others, drink the whole bottle.”

Paulo Coelho

‘Podere Marcampo winery‘ , Volterra, Tuscany

Six years ago two things happened to change my life. First of all, I fell in love with Tuscany , and then I became a sommelier. These were the starting points allowing me to discover the hidden delights of the wine of Pisa . Its area is a charming sun kissed land, stretching from the hills to the sea, blessed by God, as beautiful as unexpected!

Wine runs deep in the veins of Tuscany, being woven into the cultural identity of this central Italian paradise. The wines of Pisa are synonymous with excellence thanks to the efforts of many skilled professionals.

Follow me reading my post about ‘Podere Marcampo winery’ , which is one of the most rappresentative wine enterprise in Pisa. You’ll discover hidden treasure in the hills of Pisa.

‘Podere Marcampo Winery’ , the jewellery of the hills of Pisa

‘Podere Marcampo winery’ is one of the most important wine business in the hills of Pisa. ‘The hills of Pisa’ is not only a ‘DOC label’ , but also a ‘wine road’ , playing an increasingly important role in wine production in Tuscany . It’s on the rise only recently , starting to get the recognition that is deserves.

‘The hills of Pisa’ meanders through the hills of the valley of the Era River and the lower part of the Arno Valley crossing a territory with traditions dating back to the time of the Etruscans.

‘Podere Marcampo winery’ is green!

If you head towards this entrancing place you will be greeted by an environment almost untouched by modernity . It ranges from picturesque scenery of mesmerising color set amongst the trees to places, where wine and oil are still cultivated and produced in the traditional way.

‘Podere Marcampo winery’ is an organic biodynamic wine estate which reflects all the beauty and wine production potential of the ‘the hills of Pisa’

Claudia del Duca, the woman of the wine at ‘Podere Marcampo winery’

In February the first time I sipped the elegant wines of ‘Podere Marcampo winery’ at ‘Terre di Toscana’. This was a wine exhibition , which took place at the ‘Luna Hotel’ in Viarreggio. Claudia Del Duca, the owner of ‘Podere Marcampo winery’, invited me to visit her estate in Volterra.

Claudia was very friendly and professional . What impressed me the most about her was her dedication to her work , and her love for wine, which she shared with her parents Genuino and Ivana del Duca.

A wonderful experience at ‘Podere Marcampo winery’

So, I arrived at ‘Podere Marcampo winery’ on a rainy day in late November in ‘Podere Marcampo winery’ . It’ s a family farm business, which is surrounded by lush and verdant countryside. It produces both excellent and also rare red and white wines, extra virgin olive oil and grappa.

C laudia welcomed me with a big smile. Looking at this scene where sky and sea converge at the Tuscan horizon in an endless embrace, I felt overcome with emotion. We sat down in a small patio near the front of a private residence, where we talked about the history of the whole family .

**Genuino del Duca, the man of the wine at ‘Podere Marcampo Winery‘**

C laudia explained that ‘Podere Marcampo winery’ was born in 1971 , when her father Genuino del Duca , having been promoted at work as a policeman, had moved from Abruzzo to Volterra . Then he came up with the idea of transforming his passion for food and wine into a full time job.

Actually, Genuino del Duca wanted to create a new career in food and wine, so that he could resign from his day to day work as a policeman, and worked hard to make this dream come true! In the beginning it was not easy. Though having climbed through the ranks at work , in 2001 he was able to open a small inn in Saline, a small town near Volterra.

The history of ‘Podere Marcampo winery’

By 2003 Genuino del Duca had earned enough money to open ‘Enoteca del Duca’, which is an exclusive restaurant in the center of Volterra. In 2005 he managed to buy ‘Marcampo’ a historic homestead, which had been abandoned though captured his heart as well as sparking his imagination.

Genuino del Duca restored ‘Marcampo’ shortly afterwards transforming it into what ‘Podere Marcampo winery’ is today! That is an extraordinary holiday home , as well as a farm and winery, which is surrounded by 4 hectares of land. Here he takes care of his best local grapes:

Genuino del Duca and his passion for wine

Genuino had to work hard to make his land suitable for wine growing because of the original salt and clay content of the soil. He had to plant the best rootstocks with roots to a maximum depth of 1 meter and did a lot for being successful.

Today, ‘Podere Marcampo winery’ is a real gem situated within a national park known as ‘Le Balze’, which is a magical place where visitors can slow down and unwind. At ‘Podere Marcampo winery’ there are:

an outdoor swimming pool;
a sunlit terrace;
vineyards;
gardens;
olives tree

A tour at ‘Podere Marcampo Winery’

After a short walk through the vineyards C laudia explained the winemaking process starting with the working of the land to the bottling in the wine cellar and this for me was the best part of the tour.

In the tasting room I sampled high quality wines paired with homemade cured meats and local cheeses. ‘Podere Marcampo winery’ is completely hand worked by Genuino and C laudia and is organic, completely free of any pesticides.

A couple of million years ago this area lay at the bottom of the sea . That’s why the soil is rich in fossil shells , and is characterised by a particular geology of sand, silt, clay and limestone . They have been stable for centuries giving a complexity, structure and minerality to these well balanced wines.

The wines of ‘Podere Marcampo winery’

These are the best award winning labels I tasted:

• ‘Terrablu’: It’s a white wine made from Vermentino and Malvasia . The grapes are first processed by the modern technique of maceration in order to preserve all the aromas of the variety . There are four months of fermentation in temperature controlled stainless steel tanks. On the palate there are notes of lime, almond, green apple and white florals , with a unique sense of refreshing acidity, its charm being in its delicate, briny nose and long, fresh palate;

• ‘Giusto alle Balze’: It’s a red wine made from 100% Merlot. It’s vinified in stainless steel vats, then aged in oak barrels for 12 months. It’s left to settle for another 6 months before bottling. It is my favourite wine , because of its soft and sensual texture and approachable style. This wine has won the silver medal at ‘Mondial du Merlot’ in Lugano and the ‘Concours Mondial Merlot’ in Brussels;

• ‘Severus’: It’s a red wine made from a selection of 100% Sangiovese. It’ s vinified in stainless steel vats then aged in oak barrels for 12 months. This wine is left to settle for another 12 months before bottling. Tasting of clove spice and cherries , it’s also savoury, providing a wide range of tastes from the very earthy and rustic to the rounded and red fruit;

• ‘Marcampo’: It’s a red wine made from 50% Sangiovese and 50% Merlot. These two varieties are vinified separately in stainless steel vats and blended after 12 months in oak barrels. The wine is left to settle for another 6 months before being bottled. It is a powerful combination of the sweet, juicy, fruit flavours of Merlot, and the rustic, sour-cherry tang of Sangiovese;

• ‘Genuino’: It’s a red wine made from 80% Sangiovese and 20% Merlot. These two varieties are vinified separately in stainless steel vats and then blended and bottled after 10 months. It’s a medium bodied moderately tannic wine , with a lovely cherry flavour, which impresses with its ruby red, vinous though also fruity and floral, dry and firm taste.

From the start Genuino and C laudia make wines just as they envisage them. Their winemaking takes its course, the grapes being gently guided through a gentle process until they arrive at carefully selected barrels for resting, maturing and evolving.

**The restaurant ‘Enoteca del Duca’ in Volterra**

After our fantastic wine tasting, Genuino , C laudia and myself made our way down to the ‘Enoteca del Duca’ , whic is their restaurant in the centre of Volterra. Genuino’s wife, Ivana runs this fine and intimate restaurant , which is equipped with a terrific outdoor garden and excellent wine cellar housed in a historic building situated in ‘Priori Square’

‘Enoteca del Duca’ offers a special kind of gourmet cuisine . Its menu changes according to the season and the availability of ingredients. My lunch was really wonderful and the service impeccable. I tried their best wines along with their home-made pasta in beef broth and their boar stew.

Wine and food of top quality!

The quality of wine and food was outstanding, the ambience wonderfully inviting . When you go, ask to see their beautiful wine cellar , which is packed with many unknown treasures! Genuino’s family form a perfect team when it comes to satisfying food and wine lovers.

C laudia also organizes cooking classes at their farm demonstrating how to make fresh pasta or ‘focaccia’ whilst also allowing you to discover the secrets of homemade cake making all under the guidance of a professional Italian chef.

Volterra, amazing city in Tuscany

I thanked Genuino and C laudia warmly for the wonderful memories they had provided me. They had made me feel at home . Before going back to Pisa, it was a good idea to explore Volterra,because there is lot of things to see and to do!

The history of Volterra

Volterra is a delightful medieval town . I think it well deserves a place in this list of the best towns of Tuscany . Its narrow streets are full of old churches, palaces, secret chapels, intimate restaurants and alabaster shops , where you can watch artisans at work.

Alabaster has long been a big industry in Volterra. Softer and easier to work than marble, this translucent material was traditionally thinly sliced to provide windows for Italy’s medieval churches.

What to see in Volterra

The best way to appreciate Volterra is to walk through its cobbled lanes, enjoying :

3 things to visit in Volterra

Other things to visit in Volterra include:

‘The Alabaster Museum’: This museum is housed in the 13th-century ‘Minucci Towers’. It boasts the ancient alabaster tradition of Volterra has an . Art fans can watch sculptors at work and can purchase locally made alabaster in the studio shop;
‘The Guarnacci Museum‘: It houses the world’s largest collection of Etruscan funerary urns, used to collect the ashes of the dead;
‘Roman Cistern’: It’s located at the top of the hill by the ‘Medicean Fortress’. The cistern, made of opus caementicium, had to supply the whole area of the ‘acropolis’ with water. It’s formed by a large rectangular room divided into three naves covered with a barrel vault with six pillars in stone blocks. The entire building can be dated to the first century. d. C. and for its capacity, which is about 1000 cubic meters, must have been built with public money.

Famous films set in Volterra

In recent years Volterra has attracted international recognition for its connection with the ‘Twilight’ series of books and movies, part of the second movie ‘New Moon’ being set in Volterra though most of the movie was actually filmed in another Tuscan town.

More than 2000 years ago Volterra was a key trading center and one of the most important Etruscan cities and was protected by a wall four miles long, twice the length of the wall that encircles Volterra today. You can still see the mighty Etruscan gate, built from volcanic stone.

Bye Bye Volterra!

Tuscany is a pretty large region, and all of it is stunning. There is so much to see and do that I can’t suggest any particular good guide or website! But even in the short time I spent here, there’s so much to recommend to you I don’t even know where to start!

It would be a good idea to enjoy any good wines in Tuscany , not just to drink them, but to experience people, places, and cultures . The Tuscans consider themselves the inheritors and stewards of a centuries-long legacy of beauty.

Every tree that’s planted, every farmhouse that’s restored, every road that’s re-routed — it’s all carefully considered not only on practical or economic merits, but also on aesthetics. Get lost among this huge amount of artistic wonders!

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Pisa,Tuscany

Posted on May 15, 2018May 26, 2022 by Stefania Tardino

“Pisa, o Pisa, per la fluviale , melodia che fa sì dolce il tuo riposo , ti loderò come colui che vide , immemore del suo male , fluirti il cuore , il sangue dell’aurore , e la fiamma dei vespri , e il pianto delle stelle adamantino , e il filtro della luna oblivioso“

Gabriele D’Annunzio

**Beyond the “Leaning Tower” !**

Pisa is a city in Tuscany, central Italy, on the right bank of the mouth of the River Arno on the Tyrrhenian sea. Although Pisa is known worldwide for its “Leaning tower” (the “Bell Tower of the City’s Cathedral”) , it contains more than 20 other historic churches, several palaces and various bridges across the River Arno . Pisa and its architecture of was financed from its history as one of the Italian “Maritime Republics”.

Pisa is also home of the University of Pisa, which has a history going back to the 12th century and also has the mythic Napoleonic “Scuola Normale Superiore di Pisa” and “Sant’Anna School of Advanced Studies” as the best sanctioned “Superior Graduate Schools in Italy”. Read this post about Pisa to know what to do in this amazing city of Tuscany!

Top 10 things to do

When Pisa is mentioned, everybody thinks about its tower, but this impressive “Leaning Bell Tower” it’s just one of the many monuments you can find in this nice Tuscan city. The beautiful “Piazza del Duomo” collects, in a unique architectural complex in the world, the so called “Campo dei Miracoli“ (“Miracles Square”), the main religious monuments of the city:

Pisa, however, it’s not just about this square: it will be enough to move just a little to discover the artistic beauty that make Pisa one of the most beautiful cities in Italy. Buildings, monuments and museums keep alive the memory of a past time during which Pisa was the “Maritime Republic” and, for a long time, the undisputed master of the Mediterranean sea .

1 The “Leaning Tower”

Symbol of the city, thanks to its characteristic slope, this tower is the most famous monument of “Piazza del Duomo” and it was built between the XII and the XIV century. The “Leaning Tower of Pisa” leans because the ground gave during its early stage of construction, and since then it has remained in this way.

The tower will never fall down!

Even if it could looks scaring, you don’t have to worry about it: the vertical axis, passing through its centre of gravity, falls into the support base, so the tower will never fall down, unless the laws of physics should be subverted.

We don’t have certain information about who built this tower, maybe it was the architect Diotisalvi, who in that period was working at the Baptistery. But even if there are several analogies between the two monuments the diatribe about the paternity of the tower is still open.

2 The “Cathedral of Santa Maria Assunta”

The “Cathedral of Pisa”, dedicated to Santa Maria Assunta, is the most significant example of the Pisa Romanesque Art. The architect Buscheto joined the classical tradition with elements from the Norman, Byzantine, Pre-Christian and Arabic Arts, creating a new style which anticipated the Florentine Renaissance. It testifies the prestige that the “Maritime Republic of Pisa” reached in its moment of maximum power.

The revenge against Venice

Its construction began in 1604, in the same date of the beginning of the works of the “Basilica of San Marco” in Venice. Probably it was risen a sort of silent competition between the two Republics for who was able to build the most beautiful and sumptuous worship place.

The current aspect of the the Cathedral of Pisa is the result of continues restauration works made in different epochs. During the IX century some of the statues has been substituted with copies, the originals are now in the “Museum of Opera del Duomo of Pisa”.

3 The “Baptistery”

The “Pisa Baptistery“ too forms the monumental complex of “Piazza del Duomo” . Its construction began in 1153 thanks to the architect Diotisalvi, as an inscription inside an interior pillar testifies, but a lot of the sculptures on the façade have been made by Nicola Pisano and his son Giovanni.

The great Nicola Pisano

Nicola Pisano made also the pulpit that represents scenes from the Christ’s life and subject that represents the virtues: all masterpieces testify how their creator has been one of the principals precursors of the Renaissance Art.

The external dome covers only the first part of columns and probably the lack of money caused it. The dome, in fact, is made by different materials (red shingles and lead plates); for the same reason there are no frescoes on the ceiling, even if they were on the original plan.

4 The monumental “Graveyard “

The last wonder of “Piazza del Duomo” is the monumental “Graveyard of Pisa“, a sacred place. The crusaders brought there the saint-ground taken on the Golgotha mountain, just outside Jerusalem.

There are buried the most important people of Pisa, and there can be found art works from the Etruscan time passing through the Roman and Medieval era until the last century. Simple white marble walls guards the graves; the most important persons were buried into the garden or in the Roman sarcophagi, while the other were buried under the arcades.

**The “Graveyard of Pisa” in the XIX century**

In the XIX century “Graveyard of Pisa”, was restructured, the sarcophagi was moved under the arcades to protect them, so currently everything is under them. The mix between celebration of the history and the death made this “Graveyard of Pisa”, one of the most visited place during 1800 until the second world war bombardments caused serious damages to the frescoes. In 1945 started the renovation works and they are still in progress.

5 Banks of the Arno

Pisa is also known for its Banks of the Arno: all the streets that go along the Arno are an important point of meeting for young people and reference’s point for the tourists.

There are important buildings, dated back to the Middle Age, that during the centuries have been transformed. Towers, bridges and buildings, in spite of their actual Renaissance appearance, have a medieval soul, which can’t be ignored by the eye of an attentive tourist.

What to see in the banks of Arno

Among the great number of the banks of the Arno, the most famous is the Medicean one which hosts a great number of historical buildings, such as:

The beautiful church of “Santa Maria della Spina”

On the bank of the “Arno Gambacorti” there’s a small gothic jewel, the church of “Santa Maria della Spina”. It took this name in 1333 when it hosted the relic of a spur from Christ’s Crown (now exposed in the church of “Santa Chiara”).

If you are in Pisa on 16th June, you cannot miss the illustrations of San Ranieri: the backs of the Arno are illuminated by candle lights enhancing the outlines of all buildings and creating a play of light and colors.

***“Piazza dei Cavalieri”* –*“Knights Square”***

“Piazza dei Cavalieri” owes its name to the presence of the headquarter of the “Order of Knights of St. Stephe n”. For centuries it has been the site of a national civil power, even though today it’s above all a cultural and study place thanks to the presence of the:

“Scuola Normale of Pisa”, housed in the “Palace of the Caravan”.

“Piazza dei Cavalieri” is an example of designed by Giorgio Vasari, who decorated it with allegorical figures and zodiacal signs. Close to it there is the beautiful “Palazzo dell’Orologio” (“Clock Palace”), medieval building in which it was built the “Torre della Fame” (“Tower of Starvation”).In the “Divine Comedy” Dante told the story that the Count Ugolino della Gherardesca died in 1289, in that tower, with its children and grand children.The other buildings in the square are

The Mural made by Keith Haring

In 1989, passing through Pisa, Keith Haring left to the city an extraordinary work of art:

The mural “Tuttomondo”: It was painted on the rear façade of the convent of the friars “Servi di Maria”of the “Church of St. Anthony”.

The “Church of St. Anthony”

The “Church of St. Anthony”.is located close to the station, in an urban context in which the artist used to expressed itself at the best. A few months later Haring would die and this mural is one of his last works. He had this idea in New York after a casual meeting with a Pisa student with whom he talked about world peace.

**What about “Tuttomondo”?**

The characters inside the murals are 30, stuck like a puzzle, and each one represents one aspect of a world in peace: there are “humanized” scissors defeating the evil serpent that was eating the head of the another figure.

Then there is motherhood, represented by the woman with the baby in her arms, the nature with the two men supporting the dolphin and so on. Haring used soft colors, as a form of respect for the beauty of Pisa.

He worked on it for a week, with the intention of making a permanent work, in fact, he used the colors specially made by craftsmen of the Caparol Center, tempera and acrylic that could keep intact the quality of color for a long time. After 20 years “Tuttomondo” is still there to remind us the brief and intense life of this extraordinary artist.

The city center

If you pass through the old town centre of Pisa probably you’ll pass through the “Narrow Borgo” (“burg”), or “the Borgo” as people of Pisa use to call it. It’s the most typical street of the center, with its colonnades, the shops, the café. Along the way you can see buildings of the XIV and XV centuries that formed the nucleus of the ancient Pisa: here the noble families and merchants competed to build the most beautiful, the tallest and colourful building.

All that beauty can be seen so much today. Going along “Via delle Colonne” you can arrive in “Piazza Vettovaglie”, secular place of the food market, originally “Piazza dei Porci”. Once the arcades of “Narrow Borgo” are finished there is “Piazza del Pozzetto”.

Marina di Pisa and its harbour

Marina di Pisa and its tourist harbour (also called simply “Marina”) is a seaside town located just 12 km from Pisa and, unlikely the majority of the Tuscan cities, its foundation is rather recent. In 1606, Ferdinando I de’ Medici, Grand Duke of Tuscany from 1587 to 1609, decided to reclaim the area by moving the River Arno mouth as he believed that the south-west wind could block the normal flow of the Arno River, increasing the risk of flooding in Pisa.

On the left bank there was an hexagonal building surrounded by a moat, called “the Fort“, which was the custom for the river traffic. Probably the first houses of fishermen were built around this structure, but the official foundation of the town dates back to 1872, when the municipality of Pisa drew up a plan of a grid-pattern town divided by three squares connected to Pisa by a major road, currently known as “D’Annunzio Avenue” (Viale d’Annunzio).

The first railway from Pisa to Marina di Pisa

On June 23, 1892 a steam railway line from Pisa to Marina di Pisa was inaugurated (later replaced by an electric one, no longer working as well), which contributed to its rapid growth as a tourist destination.

The first restaurants were built in this area, as well as beach resorts and inns. Also many beautiful Art Nouveau and Neo-Medieval Villas were built there, therefore many celebrities chose to buy a house in this new coastal town.

Gabriele D’Annunzio and Pisa

Gabriele D’Annunzio, a famous Italian writer, poet and journalist, brought an house here and Marina di Pisa has been a source and inspiration of many of his poems.

Marina di Pisa is a renowned destination for summer tourism, offering many accommodation facilities. Beaches are both sandy or with pebbles, and along the coast there are many bathing facilities and restaurants. In 2013, the “harbour of Pisa” was inaugurated just 10 minutes away from the city and its famous “Leaning Tower” and its international “Airport, Galileo Galilei”.

“San Rossore”, the green ara of Pisa

It is located in the center of the most extensive nature reserve of Tuscany, the “Natural Park of Migliarino”, “San Rossore” and Massaciuccoli, which covers about 24,000 hectares, ensuring that the view from the sea of dune plants is quite unique.

The harbour has 354 seats and has been designed to be entirely walkable thus you can walk admiring the sea, the mouth of the Arno, the Apuan Alps and the port itself.

Marina di Pisa offers relax and a beach break from the city, we suggest you to enjoy the seafront, a day at the (free) beaches or in a bathing establishment which is a structure with bathrooms, hot/cold showers, changing area, café and sometime restaurant.

You can rent an umbrella with chairs for the day/week/month/season and the service is available seven days a week. The harbour is a perfect spot for a walk and you can have a drink or a coffee here.

Night life

Unlike other major European cities, Pisa is far from being the most sparkling venue when it comes to nightlife opportunities. Even the fact that Pisa is a university city and that students represent a consistent percentage of the population, a fairly solid buzz takes hold of certain parts of Pisa at night, especially nearby the University.

Students, are, as it were, the most reliable barometer as to the places fitted for drinking, making conversation and, why not, dancing and listening to live music. Thus, Pisa hosts a reasonable number of pubs, bars and clubs which yield mild and yet appealing nightlife opportunities. Tourists with a penchant for long conversations, drinking and dancing may find the center of the city to be the best fitted for their night time activities.

“Via Lungarno”

“Via Lungarno” is a thoroughfare in terms of nightlife venues with its:

“Old Caffe dell’Ussero” (Lungarno Pacinotti 27, Pisa, Italy);
“Bazeel pub” (Lungarno Pacinotti 1, Pisa, Italy) ;
“Amaltea” (Lungarno Mediceo 49, Pisa, Italy).

All these places offer good music, a fine selection of drinks and, why not, quick snacks in the early hours of the evening.

Live music

Other recommendable venues in Pisa refer to:

“Pick a Flower” (Via Della Sapienza 7, Pisa, Italy) ;
“Borderline Club” (Via G. Vernaccini 7, Pisa, Italy) have to offer.

During summer night time buzz seems to shift from Pisa to the nearby coastline resorts, such as Tirrenia, Viareggio and Marina di Pisa. If accommodated in Pisa, a trip to one of these resorts is worth making, if for nothing else, than for sampling the wonderful nightlife opportunities they put forward!

9 things to eat

The gastronomy of Pisa isn’t very popular, because it isn’t very different from the Tuscany one, even if it’s more spiced and abundant . Here below it is the ultimate list of top 10 foods you must eat :

1. “Lampredotto”

2. “Crostini Toscani”

3. “Panzanella”

4. “Lardo di Colonnata”

5. “Ribollita”

6. “P appa al Pomodoro”

7. “Cacciucco”

9. “Castagnaccio“

Where to sleep

Pisa attracts about 1 million of different tourists: there are many foreigners. Italians who visit for a school weekend, many trips and even a good number of people who commute to the city to take advantage of the excellent local hospitals.

It’s therefore not easy to find a cheap room, especially in high season and during periods of school trips. I suggest, therefore, to book in advance especially if you want three stars midrange hotels in the tourist areas.

The prices of hotels

The prices of hotel in the center of Pisa start from 80 € per night in a double room including breakfast. A good alternative are the hotels and cottages on the outskirts of Pisa. If you are looking for a right accommodation in Pisa, go to Booking.com . There is a big choice with prices, pictures and comments of guests already stayed there.

Pisa, a stunning destination for your holiday in Tuscany

Travelers come from all locations of the world to discover the beauty of Pisa for several reasons: art, culture, friendly people, wine & food, extraordinary country side, attractive beaches and weather (spring and late summer are the best times to visit Pisa).

Click here in the web site of “Pisa Unica Terra” to discover much more in Pisa. We’re waiting for you!