‘A bottle of wine contains more philosophy than all the books in the world’
The wines of Pisa hills
If you’ve just booked an holiday in the magic Tuscany, you’ll soon be wondering: “what wines should I drink when I’m there?”. Surely, one can answer the wines of ‘Chianti’ !
The wines of ‘ Chianti’ are really popular indeed. They come from the valleys between the great Tuscan Renaissance cities of Siena and Florence . Exactly here for a thousand years the landscape is made up of an unchanged medieval tapestry of woodlands, olive groves and cypress trees, all guarded by magnificent aristocratic villas.
What you should know is that Tuscany boasts other different and dynamic zones. One of these is for example the rolling hills of Pisa and its province, namely the ‘Terre di Pisa D.O.C.’ , which was founded in 2011!
Since then, 15 wineries have been enhancing the quality of the wine production of Pisa and its province, promoting the wine appellations of ‘ Terre di Pisa Sangiovese‘ and ‘Terre di Pisa Rosso’ in the international markets.
‘Terre di Pisa’ , a new project for a better tourism in Pisa
On the 6th December 2018 I attended a conference press at the ‘Chamber of Commerce of Pisa’. It was hold in order to launch the project of ‘Terre di Pisa‘ . What about it? It’ is the new tourist brand for promoting the cultural heritage of Pisa and its wine making tradition . It counts about 460 members, including ‘WeLoveItaly.eu’ as well!
On that occasion, I met Nicola Cantoni , the moderator of that event. Nicola has a handshake you remember. One quickly understands Nicola as a winemaker committed to what is important in the Tuscan winemaking tradition. But guess what!
Nicola is the owner of ‘Fibbiano winery”‘, which belongs to the 15 wineries representing the excellence of wines produced in the territory of Pisa and its province . In a word, Nicola invited me to visit his winery, giving me the possibility to experience the renaissance of the wine of Pisa and its province. Thus I will be always grateful for that!
‘Consortium of the wines of Pisa’, an important wine community of Pisa and its province
While attending the press conference about ‘Terre di Pisa‘, I found out that Nicola is not only a talented winemaker , but also president of the ‘Consortium of the wines of Pisa’ . This wine committee was founded in 2018 to :
- protect the appellation of the ‘Wines of Terre di Pisa ‘;
- to develop an internationally-
renowned model for producing high-quality wines in Pisa and its province
With the sunny season approaching fast, It was time for me to plan my visit at ‘Fibbiano winery’. But, It was quite impossible to fix a date for me with Nicola , being always busy for his job ! Suddenly, his brother Matteo Cantoni was the perfect solution to the problem! Fortunately, Matteo was free to welcome me at ‘Fibbiano winery’ with open arms!
‘Fibbiano Winery’. How to make high quality wines in Pisa and its province
Lucky me! During a a weekend in March, I decided to came up at ‘Fibbiano winery’, which is home to a terrific modern winery and an enchanting farmhouse. This enchanting estate is located at n. 2 via Fibbiano , in the municipality of Terricciola. This is a stunning part of Tuscany, which is called the Era Valley (between Pisa and Volterra). This enchanting territory is fast becoming an essential reference point for Tuscan wine, indeed for Italian wine.
As I arrived at ‘Fibbiano winery‘ Matteo greeted me with a friendly smile . To begin with, Matteo was very kind with me. I had my interview with him about his farmhouse together with an exclusive wine tasting of their best wine labels. First Matteo told me all about the history of his family.
Then I visited the cellar and the vineyards of the ‘Fibbiano winery‘. Finally, I had my great wine tasting in a enchanting wine cellar.
The history of ‘Fibbiano winery’
In 1997 Giuseppe Cantoni, with his wife Tiziana and sons Matteo and Nicola, moved from Lombardy to Tuscany. They were looking for a successful wine making business living a life far away from the noise of the city and close to nature.
Therefore, they purchased a medieval villa at that time, that belonged to the noble family Gherardi del Testa Barasaglia in the 12th century . They renovated it all and turned it into what ‘Fibbiano winery‘ is today, a thriving agricultural entrepreneurship.
An adventure from the North to the South
Their adventure from North Italy in Tuscany was not only the result of a desire to search for their el dorado, but also a sign of destiny printed in one of their first label ‘Fonte delle Donne’ . This exquisite white wine is made from Colombana, an old grape that grew spontaneously around a miraculous water source near the estate.
According to tradition, the Colombana grape was introduced by San Columbanus ‘ followers in the 17th century , when these famous Irish abbots decided to settle here living behind their Milan area. Upon their arrival in their estate, Cantoni Family realized they were not the only foreigners who fell in love with Tuscany, finding the right place where to be !
Bringing to light the old farmstead was not easy, but all that work devoted to transform an old ruin into a jewellery was fully rewarded, as Cantoni Family carries on a prospering farming activity today, respecting land and the local traditions. Giuseppe, the father, deals with the general management of the middle age estate and takes care of the vineyards and countryside. Matteo, the eldest of the two sons, is in charge of marketing the wines and his brother, Nicola, is the winemaker .
The grapes of ‘Fibbiano winery’
Fibbiano’s philosophy is to continue on this thread of culture and tradition, cultivating indigenous grape varieties, such as Sangiovese, Canaiolo, Ciliegiolo, Colorino, S. Colombana, and Vermentino , instead of more international grapes. Fattoria di Fibbiano extends over an area of about 20 hectares of vineyards, 5 hectares of olive groves, 12 hectares of woodland and the rest is arable land.
Some vineyards (around 2.5 hectares) are over 100 years old and 17.5 hectares are up to 20 years old. This mixture of old vines and new vines keeps the vineyard alive, with red grapes planted on the top of the hill, and white grapes on the lower parts. Due to Fibbiano‘s proximity to the Mediterranean and Ligurian seas, the soil originates from the sea and is rich in fossil shells from the pliocene epoch, and medium-textured corals .
In terms of climate, this part of Tuscany has warm sea breezes during the day and cooler nights, which helps the grapes to retain acidity and develop flavour. This particular terroir provides to complex wines with a certain minerality, and aging capability.
‘Fibbiano winery’ is green!
I appreciated a lot of things, above all that ‘Fibbiano winery‘ is certified organic. Their practices, farming and wine-growing methods are truly natural. They even use their own wood for central heating. Further, this sustainable winery uses a solar plant to conserve energy and produce fresh water.
They are always ready to face new challenges, not least of which exporting 80% of their wine to the following countries: United States, Canada, Norway, Ireland, Germany, Austria, Switzerland, China, Russia, Malaysia, Singapore, Japan, Taiwan, Lebanon, Mexico.
The wines of ‘Fibbiano winery’
The best part of this incredible life experience was my top wine tasting. I was led to a lovely wine bar with a large wooden table full with Fibbiano Best Wines and platters of Tuscan salami, pecorino and bread. I sampled 6 different Wines, guided by Matteo who talked me through what I was enjoying, from the colour/appearance, the bouquet/smell and then the flavour.
Each wine was different, but wonderful in its own way. I tried red and white wines, but the majority of the ones I tried were red. Most of them are made from the Sangiovese grapes and some are mixed with other grapes to produce new fantastic blends.
White and rosé
- ‘Fonte delle Donne IGT Toscana‘: It’s a fruity wine made from Vermentino and Colombana, a grape that is used for Vin Santo too ;
- ‘Rosé IGT Toscana’ : 100% Sangiovese , It’s a wine with notes of red fruits, and pairs well with white meat and fish courses;
Red wines
- ‘Le Pianette IGT Toscana’ : This is a 70% Sangiovese and 30% Colorino wine; It is aged for 6 months in barrels of Slavonian oak and 3 months in bottle;
- ‘Casalini Chianti Superiore DOCG’ : This is an 80% Sangiovese and 20% Ciliegiolo wine. It is aged for 8 months in barrels of Slavonian oak and 3 months in bottle. It has the typical notes of cherry . It is a well-structured wine with smooth tannins;
- ‘Aspetto IGT Toscana’ : This is a 50% Sangiovese and 50% Canaiolo wine. It is aged for 12 months in tonneaux, 6 months in cement tanks, and 6 months in bottle. This is an intense ruby red wine with notes of mature red fruit and spices;
- ‘Ceppatella IGT Toscana’ : This is a 100% Sangiovese wine, which is made with grapes selected from the oldest vineyard of the estate – it’s a 120 years old vineyard . It is a wine aged for 6 months in tonneaux , 14 months in barrels of Slavonian oak, and 5 months in bottle. It has notes of marmalade, spices, tobacco, and cacao and a long persistence.
Matteo entertained me happily and answered all my questions by sharing the secrets of their quality wines: “Sun, soil and patience”!
The wine of Pisa hills
‘Fibbiano winery‘ offers up a bunch of very tasty wines for wine lovers and experts to experience. It is situated predominantly in the wine trail of the Pisa hills, an itinerary through the Tuscan countryside, which highlights many small towns that boast great traditions. It’s an area between Pisa and Volterra, and it extends in the vicinity of the Arno, Egola and Elsa rivers. It embraces stunning landscapes and places, such as Casciana Terme, Capannoli, Chianni, Crespina, Lari, Palaia, Ponsacco, Terricciola, Cascina, Collesalvetti, Fauglia, Laiatico, Lorenzana, Montopoli Valdarno, Peccioli, Pontedera, Santa Luce, San Miniato and Collesalvetti .
The rolling hills of Pisa gives birth to top red & white wines:
- ‘Chianti DOCG Colline Pisane‘: It’s a special area with distinctive characteristics, that covers a set of hills that are close to the sea; these red wines tend to be light and soft, displaying a ruby-red color, violet aromas and a dry, fruity and slightly tannic nature when young;
- ‘DOC Bianco San Torpè‘: It’s a fine white wine made from Trebbiano, Vermentino and Chardonnay with a specific code of production since 1980 (produced in Terricciola, Morrona, Fauglia, Peccioli, Ghizzano e Palaia). Its name is dedicated to Saint Torpè from Pisa, a Nero’s officer, who-due his conversion to Christianity-was beheaded by the Roman Emperor ;
- ‘DOC Montescudaio Rosso’: It’s a persistent red wine made from Cabernet Franc, Merlot and Sangiovese; Its colour is red ruby, and the aroma is intense and fruity (produced in Montescudaio and Castellina Marittima);
- ‘DOC Montescudaio Bianco’: It’s an harmonious white wine made from Chardonnay, Sauvignon and Vermentino (produced in Montescudaio and Castellina Marittima);
- ‘IGT’: Free from the stylistic constraints imposed on DOCG and DOC wines, Toscana IGT wines can be made into almost any form imaginable, from bone-dry whites to sweet reds and sparkling rosés;
- ‘DOC Terre di Pisa’: It’s a new DOC established in 2011 and is composed of two different wines appellations, namely ‘Terre di Pisa Red’, made from Sangiovese, Syrah, Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot, and ‘Terre di Pisa Sangiovese’ made from Sangiovese – minimum amount of 95% (produced in Fauglia, Crespina, Lari, Chianni, Capannoli, Palaia, Peccioli, Terricciola, Casciana Terme, Ponsacco, Pontedera, Montopoli V.A., Lajatico, San Miniato Orciano Pisano, Lorenzana and Santa Luce).
‘Fibbiano winery’ , the essence of the wine tradition in Pisa
Like other talented wine producers within this zone , ‘Fibbiano winery’ is an example of Pisa’s great winemaking potential, that is only to be revealed in all its splendour. I am feeling optimistic that this area is set to receive long overdue attention. Matteo was an excellent guide and wine educator
It was so natural for him to explain all that concerned his farm and how wine is made from grapes to wine. His passionate wine tasting remains for a long time among my memory . I am eager to learn much more about the super wines of Pisa, that’s why another visit to ‘Fibbiano winery’ will be a must!
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