“Arrighi Winery”, Elba

“Arrighi Winery”, Elba

The most important thing is not what you find at the end of a race, but what you feel inside while running”  

Antonio Arrighi

“Arrighi Winery”, Porto Azzurro. Elba

At the end of the month of July , I visited  “Arrighi Winery”  . Meanwhile, I had the possibility to discover  all the beauty of  Elba , which is the largest  island of  the seven jewels of the   “Tuscan archipelago”.  According to a legend,  losing  her necklace in the  Tyrrhenian sea, Venus  created the  “Tuscan archipelago” , which also consists of :

Yes of course, rolling hillsides, sunflowers, cypresses and beautiful towns, but there’s much more in Tuscany, like  Elba,  a slice of paradise. This amazing Tuscan island is destined to be turned into one of the coolest destinations of Italy . Why? Becasue of f its terrific beach-laced coves, vineyards, azure waters,  mind-bending views, and more over!

“Arrighi Winery” a way to discover Elba

Elba is  probably most famous due to being the place, which Napoleon choose  for his exile in 1814–15 after his defeat at WaterlooNot a bad place to be banished I have to say! As a result of being elected  “Emperor of Elba” in 1814 , he left  a significant mark of his short reign. Whta? In particular , these magnificent  noble residences in Portoferraio, which is the main city of the island:

Elba is located 6.2 miles from the coastal town of Piombino, and, with an area of 86 square miles (223 square km), it’s an unspoilt pearl of  Tuscany: clear blue sea, sandy beaches, wonderful landscapes, and mild climate. There is  a varied vegetation of Mediterranean type, which is rich in olive groves and vineyards.

Elba is not a typical tourist destination

Being a spot off the beaten path , Elba is not a typical tourist destination,   Elba is infact mostly frequented by Tuscany residents. You’ll not find hordes of people or lines and crowds like in other Mediterranean islands, such as in Sicily or in Sardinia. So, if you want to avoid them too, book a trip in spring or early autumn !

Moreover, Elba is a land full of history: remains of the Etruscan, Roman and Medieval ages testify a fascinating past and  rich wine cultural heritage .

Above all, Elba is well worth being seen for the flavours of its cuisine too, which is made from simple dishes and fantasy. Being an island, Elba has several fish restaurants. Every morning, fishermen go offshore and fish all day. Lovely, in the late afternoon, they bring their catch to the island’ s restaurants.

If you haven’t visited Elba yet, you need to . Right now! This gorgeous small island is destined to be turned into one of your  must-see places !

Elba History

Being inhabited since pre-historic times,  Elba was discovered early on to be ripe with iron-ore deposits. Elba attracted a lot of ancient people, such as the Etruscans and the Greeks. They called it  “Aethalia” (which means “smoky place”, probably because of the smelting furnaces). Later the Romans, renamed   it “Ilva”,  established a naval base on the island.

Over the centuries Elba underwent many other invasions and dominations. In the early Middle Ages, Elba was ruled by Pisa, in 1290 by Genoa, in 1399 by the “Dukes of Piombino”, and in 1548 by Cosimo I de Medici of Florence. From 1596 until 1709 the Eastern part of Elba was under the Spanish Empire control for about 150 years, then the whole territory was conquered first by Naples, and finally by the French in 1802.

When Napoleon I abdicated in 1814, he was exiled to Elba, where he landed on May 4. Since then, Elba was recognized as an independent principality with Napoleon as its jing until February 26, 1815.  Thereafter, Elba was restored to Tuscan, with which it passed to unified Italy in 1860.

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1st day , 23th July. Arrival in Portoferraio

Elba, is surprisingly easy to reach as well! I took a train from Pisa to Piombino Marittima . Then  from the station I had a short walk  to the ferry reaching  Elba in 45 minutes!

Approaching Elba, I was amazed at how massive and densely forested it was. After disembarking in pastel-hued Portoferrario, Elba’s largest city  founded by Cosimo I  de’ Medici in 1548, I headed down the red pedestrian pathway towards the town with a  tour of Napoleon’s Residences above mentioned.

I took lots of photos strolling around the cobbled streets of the cute Portoferrario, both in the city center and in the old town. I kept walking taking a hike to the De Medici fortress” , a great  example of a defensive military architecture of the XVI century.

Grand Duke of Tuscany Cosimo l  built this big complex of fortified walls  and  old forts (“Fort Falcone” , “Fort Stella”  and“Linguella Tower”)  as a defence against the Turkish attacks.  Without any doubt  from there I enjoyed  breath taking panoramic views.

Porto Azzurro is waiting for me! 

Then as the day was really sultry, I had to rest,  drinking a cold cola in one of  the many beach cafes which dotted the little port . My cola ice cubes turned into water fort the summer heat, while I was waiting in Portoferrario for   Antonio Arrighi. This multitalented wine entrepreneur  welcomed me at his winery in Elba for an  interview . Antonio picked me up at the bar and  drove me to  Porto Azzurro, a tiny fisher village where he lives and works.

Porto Azzurro  is  the second most important inhabited center of the island . It was a fortune to  spent three days in this quaint village, staying at the central  “Belmare Hotel” . After I unpacked my bags , Antonio and me had our lunch at “Sopravento restaurant” to speak about the interview.

First  my attention was captured by our succulent seafood dishes:

During our delicious lunch , Antonio started to talk about his life, while I was listening carefully. That’s all, time went by faster and faster . Yes, I can say that I was totally enchanted by his words, being completely absorbed in his speech!

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Antonio Arrighi , the famous winemaker of Elba island

What about Antonio Arrighi ? Well, he was born in the room number 13 of  “Belmare Hotel” (where I was hosted, what an happy coincidence!) in Porto Azzurro.  Once this hotel belonged to his father, therefore Antonio was raised in a family of experienced hoteliers and restaurateurs with a long tradition of  hospitality in Elba.

In 1960, when tourism was booming in Elba, the  Arrighi Family started the hotel business, and in 1970 run a farm for its hotel clients producing different types of meat (pork, rabbit, etc), flowers, peaches and grapes. As a child Antonio was always involved behind the scenes.

In 1980 Antonio became  a sommelier (he is still being part of the Elba Delegation of “AIS Toscana”),  not only to take care of  his vineyards, but also for making excellent wine!

In 1995 a great opportunity knocked on his door , when Antonio undertook an ambitious project in collaboration with the Tuscan Region and with Paolo Storchi (senior researcher at CREA (“Council for Agricultural Research and Agricultural of Arezzo”).

The ambitious idea of Antonio was about understanding which international grape varieties along with the local ones could grow in Elba. He found the answer in these grapes:

Antonio went on with planting these selected international grape varieties in Elba, being drought and diseases resistant.  Moreover, these international grape varieties complied with high quality standards and delivered consistent results time after time.

Antonio Arrighi’ s family

Since 2000 onwards Antonio was fully dedicated to his winemaking passion, which turned into his main activity. His family is very supportive .  Each of them helps Antonio with the wine business: Giulia is the young oenologist, Ilaria  deals with the marketing, and the little Matteo  is still growing up!

Piazza Matteotti in Porto Azzurro, Elba

After my  fantastic  lunch with Antonio  ,  I  went back to my hotel to sleep a little bit. Late in the evening after my little nap, I wandered through the narrow streets of Porto Azzurro:

From “Piazza Matteotti”  I continued down the main streets of the harbour:

  • Via Vitaliani” and “Banchina 4 Novembre” , which were coloured by the balcony flower pots,  by the souvenirs shops and by the moon which had risen over the harbour.

While I was relaxing with a wonderful “apericena” in the  nice “Bar Corinto”, I looked all around  noticing how much beauty was in every corner of this old fishing town.

Promise, I was fascinated  by the lush natural beauty of  Elba , by its enchanting harbour, and by its people sweetness. Though I am hardly in a position yet to recommend “the best’ of anything”, I experienced enough to suggest an enjoyable two-day itinerary. What’s more, I  will give you a glimpse of the treasures that Elba has to offer!

To begin with, I can tell you that most of the island is very panoramic. Definitely, It is because  there are no ugly buildings to be found .

Belmare Hotel, Porto Azzurro

2nd Day. The “Arrighi Winery”  in Elba island

My morning breakfast  “Belmare Hotel” in Porto Azzurro was an abudant buffet with fresh bread, marmalade and an hot black coffe  espresso .  I set outside on the terrace looking out to see the first light of the day. Meantime, the sea-gulls were playing with the wind,  while  the  fishermen where spreading their nets.

I was embraced by a warm  and Mediterranean atmosphere. Soon after , as the heat was closing in on me, I took a refreshing dip  in a small cove near Porto Azzurro city center. Nothing better than this! It set me up perfectly  for the upcoming wonder of my your in Elba, that is my visit to “Arrighi Winery”

“Arrighi Winery”, in the heart of Porto Azzurro

At about eleven o’ clock Antonio collected me from my hotel to visit  his estate in “Piano al Monte”,. Thi is  an area in the eastern hills of Porto Azzurro, within the “Tuscan Archipelago National Park” . We arrived at his winery after only a  few minutes drive. Then Antonio and I rode on a Quad , going  around  his amphitheatre of grapevines and his trekking wine paths in “Piano al Monte”.

While we rode  he talked about his tremendous existence! From what he said it’s clear that Antonio is very fond of his family and of his farmhouse, whose secret ingredients are passion, tradition, and innovation. With a production of about 40,000 bottles per year,  Antonio‘s property extends over 12 hectares, of which 7 are vineyards with 300 olive trees.

After this wine trip, I went into the office of  Antonio , writing down all that was useful for a better understanding of the wine production in Elba.

Elba , the terroir and the goal of Antonio Arrighi in  wine production 

If asked what Elba‘ s flagship wine is , we would probably answer Aleatico, or Ansonica. Of course,  these grapes  expresses the cultural roots and spirit of the island! In particular the goal of Antonio is not only to produce wine from these local grapes, but also to experiment with new ones. Those grapes,  which are best suited to the Elba with a proper  terroir  , which is unique in the world.

In brief, Antonio pointed out that viticulture has been always florid in Elba  for this particular terroir, that is the result of of the geological past of the Elba itself ! Elba  was infact the largest remaining portion of land that once connected the Italian peninsula to Corsica.

That’ why the Tuscan island  boasts a wide variety of  fertile terrains.  Basically Elba is made from iron and  clay, and different landscapes with high mountains, valleys, and small coastal plains. A third of the surface area is above 200m, and the highest point, which is  “Monte Capanne” (1019 meters above sea level).

Thus all of these pedoclimatic characteristics of Elba together with sea, sun and a mild climate, are fundamental for an high quality of its  wine production. Surely  , Elba  is full of wineries and vineyards , which occupy different terrains from distinct geological formations.  Because of these varied soils,  Elban wines flourish with unique organoleptic characteristics.

“Arrighi winery”, two lines of wine production

Antonio reminded me that the origin of Elban viticulture was very old.  This sector together with farming, fishing and iron and granite mining activities made up  a significant portion of the economy , before tourism’s environmental and social affected the island.

The best quality of Antonio is creativity. He has the imagination to create in his mind a wine . Later he knows how to  realise it in his winery. That’s because as Antonio says: ” winemaking is an art  as well as a science, and having the ability to think outside the box and to improvise, when needed, are critical skills to be successful”.

Antonio is intuitive and perceptive enough to be able to understand Elba ‘s  terroir and coax out its maximum potential. In this way,  his wines reflect their origin and have their own personality. It has led him to develop two lines of wine production:

  1. The first line is based on the historic grape varieties of the island:  Procanico (or Trebbiano), Ansonica (or Inzolia), Biancone, Riminese (or Vernaccia) for the white wines. Sangioveto, Tintiglia and the famous Aleatico for the red wines;
  2. The second line is  based on the international grape varietiesChardonnay, Incrocio Manzoni (Riesling and Pinot Blanc) and Viognier for the white wines.  Syrah, Sagrantino  and Tempranillo for the red wines.

What about wine tradition in Elba island? 

Furthermore, Antonio could already glimpse the enormous potential offered by Elba as a wine-making region. Its  wine heritage dates back to Greek  (10th Century B.C.), Etruscan (6th Century B.C.), and Roman (5th Century B.C.) period. All these ancient settlers left their indelible signs on winemaking in the island.
For example, there are traces of a glorious past in wine production and trading in two recent discoveries in Elba (2013) : five large terracotta amphorae in  a Roman Villa  , and other ones  found on board of roman shipwrecks around the island. These findings attest attest that the wine trade was already widespread in the island . This happened  thanks to methods suitable for the conservation and transport of this product.

Specifically, the importance of traditional knowledge in wine can be recognised for example in the the  vinification in terracotta amphorae.  As you’ll see in my post, Antonio displayed this old  technique thatwith scientific rigor in his winery!

However, viticulture in Elba wasn’t always picnic during the centuries. In general, there is no evidence relating to the  viticulture of Elba during Middle Age. But it’s documented that Elban wine had a good reputation and a trading for fair price in Tuscany.
On one hand, at  the end of 18th and for all the 19th century tthe  viticulture of Elba  enjoyed remarkable development, thanks also to Napoleon’ s attention to wine-growing and to the wines. On the other hand, between 1850 and 1860, following several disasters (mildew; vine louse), the wine production dropped dramatically in Elba.
Suddenly, in 1878  the wine production in the island recovered again. First It produced about 20 times more as the current production. F went down again. At that time Elba landscape was marked by vineyards terraces, covering the hillsides as high as 400 m above sea level.

What about wine production today in Elba island? 

By the way, from the ’60s there was a continuous decrease in number of vineyards in Elba due to the increase of tourism and urbanization. To summarize, today vineyards cover about 300 hectares of the island, and only about 125 of them are on the official “D.O.C. register”.
Until now,  most of the previous terracings are either covered in wild bushes and trees. Besides,  buildings have been put in their place.  Lastly, people tend to prefer growing vines where the ground is flat,  picking the grapes with modern machinery too.
It’s only in recent years that wines from Elba have gone up in quality, thanks to the commitment of a handful of well organised wineries and local organizations,  whose only aim is to obtain  high quality products.
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The wines of “Arrighi Winery”, Elba

Listening to Antonio tall about his passion for Elba makes you wish to return again and again. I absolutely believe it , especially after tasting his labels in his winery with other wine lovers , all there aiming to grab  Elba‘s spirit.

Besides Antonios  Aleatico vinegar “Ace di Ale” , his liquors “Limoncino” / “Arancino”, and his olive oil, here are my top 9 reasons for your next trip to Porto Azzurro :

Unquestionably, my favourite products of this wonderful wine tasting from 2018 have been:

Why is Antonio Arrighi a talented winemaker in Elba island? Passion and hard work is the right answer ! 

Sometimes you just start to wonder if you actually want to recommend a place.  Because it will become even more popular and lose some of its authentic charms! However, “Arrighi Winery is just too good not no be mentioned! The wines were as fabulous as their reasonable prices.

Besides providing a very high standard wine tasting, Antonio went on answering all the question of other guests attending that incredible wine event in his winery.  Each of us was very happy  with  Antonio . He is such a gorgeous person . You can just feel the passion that he puts behind his work. Please, make yourself comfortable, and relax ! That’s not all about  Antonio !  Follow me for a litte bit more!

“Nesos”:  how the Greek made the sustainable underwater wine 2500 years ago

“Nesos”  is an attempt to revive, on the island of Elba, the mysterious  wine of Chios, famous in ancient times for its intense flavour  and its secret recipe!

At this point the question arises, whether Antonio is crazy or not! Certainly, he is a visionary pioneer with professional skills. Thereupon, wine experts and universities decided to collaborate with him to support this challenge, that combines oenology and archaeology .

To begin with, in 2018 Antonio  organized the  “Elba Aleatico Day “ , a wine and oil exhibition supported by the “AIS of Elba” and by the “Ministry of Agriculture”. In this conference he met Attilio Scienza, a well-known agronomist at Milano University, which was his main partner in launching this extraordinary   experiment.

Why don’t to resurrect a marine wine said to be favoured by Julius Caesar?

Primarily, this experiment witness the  interest of Antonio in recreating a kind of  sustainable wine as ancient vine growers did in Chios! Reviving the underwater wine was a big discovery  for this crazy winemaker from  Elba  for two important reasons.

First, because of  saltwater! It worked as a  natural  antioxidant and disinfectant agent! Subsequently, there is no more need for sulphites in making wines!  Second, saltwater get rid of  the waxy white surface bloom, and allows the fruit to dry quickly in the sun. This preserves more aromas, being  so tasteful unlike anything else.

The adventure of producing “Nesos” in the blue sea of Porto Azzurro

First of all, Antonio and his team reproduced this ancient process using Ansonica grape variety, also known as Inzolia. They are which are similar to the old grapes used  for  making the famous wine in Chios. After the harvesting, he pulled down Ansonica grapes into the sea water of Porto Azzurro down to approximately 7 meters for 5 days.

After that, Antonio took Ansonica grapes held in Sardinian wicker baskets out of the sea water. In the end, he dehydrated these grapes , drying them on mats. Finally,  Antonio   vinified the grapes in terracotta amphorae, which found its place once again in winemaking after many centuries a with minimal interventions!

What kind of wine is “Nesos”?

Previewing this “old greek wine” at “Arrighi Winery”, before it’s improved year after year and released to retail, makes me feel real special  ! “Nesos”  is a strong and sapid wine ,  gold in colour. The nose is round. It  is played on particular hints of  yellow apple fruit  followed by peat and seaweed aromas, as well as broom flowers typical of Elba. It is delicate and refreshing, with a savoury olive finish.

“Vinum Insulae”, a video trailer by Stefano Muti about “Nesos”

Given that, there is also a documentary film called “Vinum Insulae” shot by Stefano Muti , which immortalizes  Antonio’s undertaking . This is a 15 minutes trailer, which was awarded at the Marsille’s Film Festival “Aenovideo 2019” .

My wine and life experience at “Arrighi Winery was unforgettable. It’s really unbelievable how a strong passion for the territory and wine drove  Antonio to make his dreams come true. He  must try new approaches and think out of the proverbial box!

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Before saying Bye Bye to the magic Elba! 

After the superb wine tasting, I wallowed in a turquoise sea at “Barbarossa Beach” on the way  back to my hotel on the last day of my holiday. “Barbarossa” is one of the most beautiful and popular beaches of the of Porto Azzurro. You can get there on foot from Porto Azzurro harbour thanks to a path that runs along the coast, passing under the prison’s walls.

Walking along this beautiful scenic path you can arrive at the “Barbarossa Beach” in about 15 minutes. “Barbarossa Beach”  has a sandy shore mixed with multicoloured pebbles ranging from red to grey and brown. It has both free access and beach clubs, offering rental services of umbrellas, sunbeds and paddle boats.

“Locanda Cecconi”, where to eat in Elba island

It was pleasant to stay at the “Barbarossa Beach” till my stomach rambled! I went away to have a shower in my hotel dreaming for my last dinner in the Island. I booked at “Locanda Cecconi” as Antonio suggested! Federico with his mother run this cosy and friendly restaurant in the heart of Porto Azzurro.

I had the best grilled octopus of my life, which was served on a creamy potato and on home-made bread. My friend Walter Tripicchio joined me for the dessert time. He entertained me finely with his anecdotes about Elba and about his delightful  “Scoglio Bianco Hotel”, which is situated in the appealing bay of Viticcio.

Thanks Antonio!

Antonio never ceases to amaze! When he doesn’t work at his vineyards, he jogs early at 5 o’ clock in the morning. In this way , he proves his fidelity to have been an excellent triathlon runner  and traveller in the past.

Due to lack of time, cannot travel so much  anymore. Furthermore,  being ambassador of his island, Antonio  does not have a moment of rest, participating  in the most important trade fairs, or attending university lectures halls as a teacher . I have fallen in love with Elba . I cannot wait to return! Go to Elba if you want a good  life, and  let me know if you need my help and tips !

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Le Palaie winery, Peccioli, Tuscany

Le Palaie winery, Peccioli, Tuscany

“The Wine is on the table” , my second wine tasting at “Le Palaie Winery”, Peccioli 

The “Wine is on the Table”  is the name of  my second wine tasting event at “Le Palaie Winery ”  Peccioli. It was a big  success, which was held on the 10th March 2018 . As always,  all started with a few phone calls and emails with the great stuff of the winery to discuss which wines and the types of food to serve ,  and to double-check my  guest list.

Visiting “Le Palaie Winery ”  Peccioli  is  your way to discover the colours and flavours of Tuscany ,  exploring its stunning  vineyards and rolling hills.

“Le Palaie Winery”, the beauty of Tuscany in a glass

Visiting “Le Palaie Winery is  your way to discover the colours and flavours of Tuscany ,  exploring its stunning  vineyards and rolling hills. It’s also the ideal starting point to enjoy famous and important medieval cities of Tuscany such as:

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The history of the “Le Palaie Winery”

In 1996 Nino Capon   founded    “Le Palaie Winery ”   in Peccioli  . This great entrepreneur loved  the the Valdera area , becasue is considered an emerging wine region in the Tuscan province of Pisa. So he decided to open the farm and then to plant the vines in an area strongly devoted to wine production.

A winery and a farm house among the Tuscan hills

In the first floor “Le Palaie Winery ”    is provided with a modern vat cellar and an underground barrique cellar for the aging of wines where. Here stunning sculptures transform the room in a real art gallery.

In the second floor there is a  big and terrific terrace with a magic view to the Tuscan landscape. It’s also a farm house with 7 apartments and 3 independent houses of various sizes. All of them are modern and equipped with  all facilities and a swimming pool too.

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5 Top wines

There were many people who came to enjoy the top 5 wines of the  “Le Palaie Winery” which were paired with local products: cheeses (one mild, one medium, one strong), fruits, nuts, crackers and chocolates.

Moreover, guests had fun with a wine quiz to determine their  wine knowledge.  Then a very rare thing happened to me. Just before introducing myself to the guests, I started to get nervous! My normal, confident self decided to go on break just when I needed !

Adrian Setright and Stefano Matteucci starring!

Then I  I took a deep breath and  I found my voice and began the wine tasting. Developing my own rhythm, all of my nerves quickly melted away! Of course, we laughed a lot, learned a lot about wine. We all had fun thanks to two artists , who helped me with all the wine event: 

5 Top labels

Here the best 5 labels of “Le Palaie Winery“: 

1.“Rosato”: It’s a rosé made from Merlot and Sangiovese grapes , which grow on hills in loose to medium terroir that leads to sandy soil. A hint of copper to the eye, fruity florals to the nose plus high acidity leads to intense flavours;

2.“Viognier”: It’s a white wine , which is made from Viognier (100%) . This grape originally comes  from the Rhone Valley, France. It’s characterized by floral notes to the nose ( honeysuckle and lavender) along with peaches and suggestions of smoke. Detect hints of white peaches, citrus and dried apricots with a finish of butterscotch and oak;

3. “Gatta Ci Cova”: It’s a red wine made from  Sangiovese (50%), and Merlot (50 %) . This wine has  an intense ruby colour and a typical fruity perfume of a fresh young wine with yummy hints of wild berries;

4. “Sagrestano”: It’s a red wine made from Sangiovese (50%) and  Alicante (50%). Its  scent is  of spices, black pepper , which are mainly present also on the palate;

5. “Bulizio”: It’s a red wine made from Cabernet Sauvignon ( 40 %) , Merlot (40%),  Petit Verdot (20 %) . Its colour is deep ruby, and  the nose detects ripe fruit that leads to spicy notes. Its tannins are strong;

“Le Palaie Winery”, amazing wine tasting in Peccioli, Tuscany

Without any doubt, “Wine is on the table”  was my second best wine tasting experience at the “Le Palaie winery ”   .  Hosting a wine tasting event was a great way to do something fun, classy, and different with my  friends and other guests .

Special thanks! 

As a Sommelier  I never stop learning, growing and building up my experience that goes on with the AIS of Lucca” ( “Italian Sommelier Association”) .

Special thanks to:

All in all, my second wine  tasting was everything I could have hoped for, with such a wonderful host and crowd, it  reconfirmed my decision to be an independent wine consultant!

 

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“I Pisani più Schietti 2017”

“I Pisani più Schietti 2017”

“I Pisani più Schietti 2017”, the wine event of Pisa

“I  Pisani  più Schietti 2017” is a great wine exhibition , which  was held on the 25th November 2017  . It took place  in the   “Il Giardino del Colombre”, which is a nice restaurant inside an old convent called  ” I Cappuccini in San Giusto” .

“I  Pisani  più Schietti 2017”  (XVIII edition) was organized by the “F.I.S.A.R  of Pisa” (“Confederation of Wine Tasting Experts, Hotels and Restaurants”). It’s a wine tasting of the best wines of the Hills of Pisa” .

At the “I  Pisani  più Schietti 2017”   there were local wineries of Pisa and its Province promoting the vast heritage of autochthonous grapes such as:

“I Pisani più Schietti 2017”, the wine beyond Bogheri!

The province of Pisa extends over an area characterized by plains and hills that reach an elevation of 200 metres above sea-leve. The  wines of Pisa and its Province’s   belong to a specific area and are associated with a road that leads gently along green hills in a charming landscape.

There are many  family-run Wine Farms : they have changed into businesses and  promote their “D.O.C. Wines” (“Registered Designation of Origin“) and “D.O.C.G. Wines” (“Registered and Guaranteed Designation of Origin”)  in Italy and abroad.

The wine lands between Pisa and Livorno

Between the provinces of Pisa and Livorno exist zones highly suited to winemaking, with the mother of Tuscan coastal wines, Bolgheri, at the centre, such as :

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“I Pisani più Schietti 2017”. And the winner is!

“I  Pisani più Schietti 2017” included a competition for the best wines of Pisa and   its  Province. A special commission made up of  some members of the “Chamber of Commerce of  Pisa”  awarded the following wineries :

The audience was welcomed in a friendly atmosphere inside the beautiful location of ” I Cappuccini in San Giusto” , the old convent surrounded by a big garden in Pisa  .

Despite the pouring rain on , each guest tasted all the wines guided by the advices of the wine tasting experts. They explained the story of “I Pisani più Schietti 2017” , and  they were very proud of the quality of their wines .

Moreover, there was the possibility to order something to eat something local as well. It was a great moment to realize what Pisa and its Province can offer in terms of food and wine  excellencies. Pisa and Its Province are very proud of its wine production in a region like Tuscany with wineries of National and International fame scattered throughout the country!

“Il Sagrestano, Le Palaie winery”, my best red wine at “I Pisani più Schietti 2017”

It was time to go home and while  looking out from the window to check out the awful weather conditions.  To me, the  best wine of the wine event was :

“Cuore Perduto , Ricciardi Toscanelli Estate” , a good wine to pair with “carbonara”

What a better time to prepare a “Carbonara” than that cold  Saturday evening  at the end of the “I Pisani  più Schietti 2017” !

I went running straight to a nearby  supermarket . While I was looking for some bacon for my “Carbonara dinner”  , a beautiful lady promoting  the awarded red wine “Cuore Perduto”  fell under my eyes.

Her name was Nadia Pesce,  owner  of  the “Ricciardi Toscanelli Estate”  in Pontedera , who  produced that special wine. I congratulated her for the prize, but she didn’t know anything yet! It was so nice to read her happiness in her big green eyes!

She was there to share her products with common people in a ordinary day while shopping at a local supermarket rather than with the presumed cream of  wine experts!

Actually,  Nadia Pesce admitted she wasn’t crazy for wine events, because wine belonged to the hands of farmers ! We went on speaking about her personal history.

The history of Nadia Pesce, “Ricciardi Toscanelli Estate”, Pontedera

The family of Nadia Pesce moved 20 years ago from Veneto to Tuscany to manage here her historical plot of land , which  today goes by name “Ricciardi Toscanelli Estate “ .

In addition to the cultural historic value of  the “Ricciardi Toscanelli Estate “ , the scenic and environmental significance of the area is also notable. It combines the rural character of the agricultural plain and the rich vegetation of the wooded areas of the hills. It has been a great satisfaction to see that Tuscany has a huge heritage in wine-making sector that attracts entrepreneurs from every part of Italy!

If Tuscany is a land of great wines, the province of Pisa is no exception. Pisa  is magical, but there’s much more to it than the “Leaning Tower” and its rich art history: there are loads of hidden places  and a fabulous Wine & Food side that should not be overlooked! The wine region around Pisa is called the “Chianti oh the Hills of Pisa “.

The viticulture in Pisa goes back to Etruscan time!

Pisa Wine Production has been appreciated ever since the Etruscan period. The wine tradition of this area has very ancient roots: references to the wines produced in this hills have been found in fifteenth century writings.

Here agriculture and wine-growing were encouraged under the “Grand Duchy of Tuscany and, according to written testimonies, the excellent wines produced reached the markets of Florence where they had a very good reputation.

“San Torpè DOC”, the old white wine of Pisa

According to some written sources  the “White Wine  San Torpè” of Pisa has been produced here since 110 AD.

It became a “D.O.C. Wine”  (“Registered Designation of Origin”) in 1980 and this name was chosen to remember San Torpè,  who is a Christian martyr  from Pisa,  . He was a Nero’s soldier , who for his conversion to Catholicism  .

His body was  abandoned on a boat with a dog and a rooster . After a long sailing, the boat landed at a village on the French coast, which was then named for him. The head of  San Torpè,  is still kept in a  church of  Pisa dedicated to him.

 The “White Wine  San Torpè D.O.C.” of Pisa   is typical of several municipalities in the province of Pisa and in one municipality in Livorno. It is produced from  Trebbiano  (minimum 75%) and it is also produced in the two versions of “Vin Santo “ and “Vin Santo Riserva”.

Food in Pisa

The Cuisine in Pisa and its Province offers lots of variety and taste. It is famous for  grain, olives. There  are lots of  restaurants in the historic center of Pisa . They offer typical dishes and products:

What about the food in Pisa?

 Pisa’s cuisine varies from fish (eel, octopus) and seafood specialties to game dishes.  As far as desserts, a particular mention goes to “Torta con i Bischeri”. It’s a pastry based tart filled with rice cooked in milk and flavoured with lemon, vanilla and nutmeg with the addition of chocolate pieces, candy fruit, raisins and maraschino liqueur.

Vegetables grow in abundance here, given the mild climate of this part of Tuscany , and are used mostly to make quiche and frittatas. Beans are widely used.

My favourite dish is:

  •  “Pappa al Pomodoro”  : it’s made of stale bread,  peeled tomatoes, garlic, basil and olive oil.  that you could combine for example with one of those incredible  Tuscan wines already mentioned!

Pisa and its chocolate

Pisa is famous even for its Chocolate Valley” a place located between Pisa, Pistoia and Prato where you can find some of the best Italian chocolatiers.

Starting from Pontedera, here there is:

The wine and Pisa

Wine is a way to discover Pisa, which lies on the right bank of the mouth of the River Arno on the Tyrrhenian sea. Although Pisa is known worldwide for its Leaning tower” (the “Bell Tower of the City’s Cathedral”) , it contains more than 20 other historic churches, several palaces and various bridges across the River Arno .  Pisa and its architecture of was financed from its history as one of the Italian Maritime Republics”.

Pisa is also home of the University of Pisa, which has a history going back to the 12th century and also has the mythic Napoleonic Scuola Normale Superiore di Pisa” and Sant’Anna School of Advanced Studies” as the best sanctioned Superior Graduate Schools in Italy”. Have a nice holiday!

 

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