Federici Winery, Ortonovo, Liguria

Federici Winery, Ortonovo, Liguria

“With Wine, Poetry, or Virtue, as you choose, but get Drunk!”

Charles Baudelaire

The ‘Federici Winery’, the Lunigiana in a glass! 

There is nothing like the regional products of a territory that can describe its history and culture. The fruits of the earth tell us how  people have shaped the landscape where they live. That is why visiting “Federici Winery is a special way to discover Lunigiana.

Lunigiana is a mysterious land sandwiched between the Ligurian coastal towns of “Cinque Terre” and the Tuscan cities of Lucca and Pisa. Follow me , read my post and explore a new part of Italy!

Federici Winery

A special visit at “Federici Winery”, Ortonovo, Liguria

On the 2nd November I visited the “Federici Winery in Ortonovo, near the ancient ruins of Luni, the famous Roman port, where Roman merchant ships  used to transport precious Carrara marble along the Tyrrhenian Sea.

Luca Federici welcomed me when I arrived at his wine cellar. He was ready to guide me through a tour of his  winery and dedicated his time to share with me the story of his family, his territory and his wines. Luca’s big smile warmed a rainy day, making me realise that if you do what you love, you never work a day in your life!

Federici Family, a Story of vineyards and men

The Federici family, originally from Ortonovo  boast a long tradition of winemaking that has been handed down from father to son.

It all started in 1985, when Giulio Federici and his wife Isa, the third generation of the family restored a country property in Lunigiana , devoting themselves to cultivating the local grapes and to making quality wines.

Luca, the oenoligist, and his brother Andrea, the sales and marketing manager, represent the fourth generation of the Federici family“. Today together they lead their business with passion, professionalism and with care for their territory.

Vermentino, the gold grape of Lunigiana land

The best result of the Federici family‘s love for what they do is  of course one of my favourite wines, the so called Vermentino: a dry white wine that is sleek, tangy and even a little bit sexy.

There are hundreds of white grape types planted throughout Italy,  though the Vermentino for me is really the best  .

This old variety grows well  here , because  the climate is mild , and because the vines are planted close to the sea.

I’m crazy  about the elegance of the Vermentino as well as the , minerality and  saltiness in its finish, and pairing it  with the local cuisine specialities , such as : seafood antipasti and pesto sauce, is something you have to experience once in your life!

“Federici Winery” is located near the ancient Roman port of Luni

“Federici Winery owes its name to the sun shining in the ancient Roman port of Luni. The archaeological site is still intact and just a couple of miles from the winery, and commemorates the thousand year old tradition of winemaking in this area.

“Federici Winery is located near La Spezia in far eastern Liguria nestling against the Apuan Alps (with peaks reaching almost 7,000ft  only 5 km from the sea) and the river plain of the River Magra.

The terroir of “Federici Winery”

This privileged position  provides an incredible microclimate, where the action of sea and mountain breeze, alternating between day and night, creates optimal  conditions for growing vines and producing wines of excellence.

Here the soil in the valley is of an alluvial and sandy  nature with leaner clay on the hills. That is how the Federicis can experiment  different varieties of the Vermentino producing completely different taste profiles in the vineyard, along with other grapes:

Harvest usually starts  towards the end of  August and the beginning of September . Grape picking is one of the most important phases of work for the Federicis and is entirely done by hand just like it used to be when the winery was first set up.

The estate of “Federici Winery” and its cellar

The “Federici Winery is a key player in the local economy and has the objective to constantly work to enhance the quality of its wines. The winery extends over  around 25 hectares with vineyards in prized locations both on the hillside and on the plain.

The winery buys hand-harvested grapes from other small growers in the surrounding countryside paying for quality, and  keeping alive both tradition and wine culture. The winery produces 200.000 bottles a year, including  whites, reds, rosé, sparkling wines, sweet wines and grappa.

Art and thecnology at “Federici Winery”

The Federicis invested a lot of money in the new winery in 2015, which now covers 1600 square metres and it is equipped with  state of the art technology, such as a special isobaric bottling system, which ensures  optimal care in the packaging of the wine .

Moreover, the winery follows  bio-architectural principles in order to  reduce  the impact on the environment as well as maximise energy savings. The beautiful underground cellar, where the wines rest for their final refinement, is a perfect example of the  harmony that exists between the buildings and nature.

The cellar of “Federici Winery”

The cellar is situated around a hundred metres below sea level, which helps harness the natural stability of temperature and humidity provided by the  presence of an underground aquifer.

All this is further supported by constant control of every stage of the production process thanks to ecological  solutions in the wine cellar such as solar panels, natural ventilation and the use of wood, stone and brick.

The Federicis are very proud of their magical reign and passion and patience and experience are key words of their philosophy.  For them viticulture is a family tradition, and their care for the environment, the climate, the vineyards and  their employees produces matchless wines, whose  flavour reflect the beauty of their terroir

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Tasting of the wines of Federici  Winery” 

Wine tasting in “Federici Winery is an intimate and personal experience. The tasting room  is very  large, decorated with frescos and has two magnificent handmade chandeliers the design of which has been inspired by nature.

Luca took me through his line of biological  wines and demonstrated the quality of his best bottles of wine by pouring me a glass of their Vermentino. He  is proud of his wines with good reason and I sipped through his wines with pleasure.

All showed great character and depth as well as a softness you rarely see with natural wines. They seemed stable, substantial and yet so expressively honest.

The “Colli di Luni DOC Area”

Luca explained how the ideal climate for their white wines exists in the “Colli di Luni DOC Area”:

“ During the day there is superb ventilation and optimal  exposure to the sun whilst the evenings are fresh and humid, always with moderate temperatures whether it be winter or summer.

The best white wines  of the “Federici Winery”

Federici‘s  vineyards are situated within two to three miles of the sea, and here are the three versions of  the their  best wines made from 100 % Vermentino:

What you don’t know about the Vermentino!

I learned a lot about Vermentino thanks to Luca. The best Vermentino is medium-bodied, fresh and quite round, with a floral aftertaste, and its freshness is the result of the natural, lively acidity of the grape itself which provides balance as well as a marvellous affinity for pairing with a variety of foods.

Vermentino grows not only in Liguria, but also in Sardinia and Tuscany, and in each of these three territories, the vineyards are very close to the sea,  giving the wines a special character that you don’t find in wines from vineyards in a warmer, inland area.

Vermentino from a maritime climate tends to display a great minerality or saltiness in the finish. Vermentino is one of the most important varieties in Liguria, along with another white known as Pigato.

The best red wines of “Federici Winery”

Lunigiana is one of the smallest region in Italy, but its white wines are among the most distinctive, like the other three wines I sipped at the “Federici Winery :

Lunigiana, a magic land between Tuscany and Liguria

If you are a wine lover or a wine expert, Lunigiana could be your perfect upcoming destination. Lunigiana, in north west Tuscany, has a lot to offer. It is a location to be enjoyed all year round, and above all it is easy to get to via flights to either Pisa or Genoa.

The wine region of Lunigiana is very beautiful, with vineyards on rocky  hillsides that  overlook the sea as well as vineyards higher up in the valleys  and small narrow roads that meander up amongst the vineyards.   With such a large number of grape varieties unique to Lunigiana, this can lead to some confusion though doing research before visiting and wine tasting in such a picturesque region is worthwhile.

What to see in Lunigiana

Lunigiana is also dotted with numerous stunning medieval villages and  is a pearl amongst the other international  and aristocratic hamlets  along the zone of the  “Riviera Ligure di Levante”, such as:

Lunigiana lies between the northern Appenines, the “Versilian Plan”, and the “Gulf of la Spezia” and has real rural character as well as castles, Romanesque churches, and  old towns full scenes of rare beauty starting with Luni and Sarzana.

The ancient Roman port of Luni

Luni  the ancient Roman port which gives the name to LunigianaLuni is surrounded by a valley called “Val di Magra” in the “Montemarcello Magra Park”, which extends from inland Liguria up to the Gulf of Poets”. Points of interest include the remains of an Roman Amphitheatre (1st century AD) and the Archaeological Museum.

Sarzana, a beautiful town in Liguria

Some are born in Sarzana and love it for life, others choose Sarzana as their place. The latter seems to be the case with the family Bonaparte, who were welcomed there in exile and from  where they left to conquer the world.

The Bonaparte family left an important witness to their presence in the form of the “Bonaparte Tower House”, which is located in the first section of the “Via Mazzini”, a few steps away from the ancient church of “Sant’Andrea”.

Sarzana is a quiet city, tourists don’t go there much. You might peek into some of the antique shops in the historic centre, or into the terrific  main square “Piazza Matteotti” .

There are many restaurants in Sarzana, and all of them are good. It’s like the town is waiting for tourists who seldom come.

What to visit in Sarzana 

Sarzana has two nice castles:

Federici Wines are perfect for each moment of your Life

Italy, 100 % of Beauty!

Save your appetite my friends . Stay thirsty. Passion and humility create balance in the heart and balance in the glass. Luca knows this and you can see it in his eyes and taste it in his wines.

It was an incredible experience. I learned a lot about wines and the culture of this land. Without any doubt, I can help you with finding a new place to go for your upcoming holidays in Italy!

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Fibbiano winery and the wines of the hills of Pisa

Fibbiano winery and the wines of the hills of Pisa

‘A bottle of wine contains more philosophy than all the books in the world’

Louis Pasteur

The wines of Pisa hills

If you’ve just booked  an holiday in the magic  Tuscany,  you’ll soon be wondering: “what wines should I drink when I’m there?”. Surely,  one can answer  the wines of  ‘Chianti’ !

The wines of ‘ Chianti’ are really popular indeed. They come from the valleys between the great Tuscan Renaissance cities of Siena and Florence . Exactly here for a thousand years the landscape is made up of an unchanged medieval tapestry of woodlands, olive groves and cypress trees, all guarded by magnificent aristocratic villas.

What you should  know is that    Tuscany boasts other different and dynamic zones. One of these is for example  the rolling hills of Pisa and its province, namely the  ‘Terre di Pisa D.O.C.’ , which was founded in 2011!

Since then,  15 wineries have been enhancing  the quality of the wine production of Pisa and its province, promoting the wine appellations of ‘ Terre di Pisa Sangioveseand ‘Terre di Pisa Rosso’  in the international markets.

‘Terre di Pisa’ , a new project for a better tourism in Pisa

On the 6th December 2018 I attended a conference press at  the ‘Chamber of Commerce of Pisa’. It was hold in order to launch the project of ‘Terre di Pisa . What about it? It’ is the new tourist brand  for promoting  the cultural heritage  of  Pisa and its wine making tradition .  It counts about 460 members, including  ‘WeLoveItaly.eu’ as well!

On that occasion, I met Nicola Cantoni , the moderator of that event. Nicola has a handshake you remember. One quickly understands Nicola as a winemaker committed to what is important in the Tuscan winemaking tradition. But guess what!

Nicola is the owner of ‘Fibbiano winery”‘, which belongs to the 15 wineries  representing the excellence of wines produced in the territory of Pisa and its province . In a word, Nicola invited me to visit his winery, giving me the possibility to experience the renaissance of the wine  of  Pisa and its province. Thus I will be always  grateful for that!

Consortium  of the wines of Pisa’, an important wine community of Pisa and its province

While attending the press conference about ‘Terre di Pisa‘,  I found out that Nicola is not only a talented winemaker , but also  president of the  Consortium  of the wines of Pisa’ This  wine committee  was founded in 2018 to :

With the sunny season approaching fast, It was time for me  to plan my visit  at ‘Fibbiano winery’. But, It was quite impossible to fix a date for me  with  Nicola , being always busy for his job  ! Suddenly, his brother  Matteo Cantoni was the perfect solution to the problem! Fortunately, Matteo  was free to welcome me at ‘Fibbiano winery’   with open arms!

‘Fibbiano Winery’. How to make high quality wines in Pisa and its province

Lucky me! During a a weekend in March, I decided to came up at ‘Fibbiano winery’, which is home to  a terrific  modern winery and  an enchanting farmhouse. This enchanting estate is located at n. 2 via Fibbiano , in the municipality of Terricciola. This is a stunning  part of Tuscany, which is called the Era Valley (between  Pisa and Volterra). This enchanting territory is fast becoming an essential reference point for Tuscan wine, indeed for Italian wine. 

As I arrived at ‘Fibbiano winery Matteo  greeted me with a friendly smile . To begin with, Matteo was very kind with me. I had my interview with him about his farmhouse together with an exclusive wine tasting of their best wine labels. First Matteo told me all about the history of his family. 

Then I visited the cellar and the vineyards of the ‘Fibbiano winery. Finally,  I had my great wine tasting in a enchanting wine cellar.

The history of  ‘Fibbiano winery’ 

In 1997 Giuseppe Cantoni, with his wife Tiziana and sons Matteo and Nicola, moved from  Lombardy to Tuscany. They were looking for  a successful  wine making business living a life far away from the noise of the city and close to nature.

Therefore, they purchased a  medieval villa at that time, that belonged to the noble family Gherardi del Testa Barasaglia in the 12th century . They  renovated it all and turned it into what ‘Fibbiano winery is today, a thriving agricultural entrepreneurship.

An adventure from the North to the South

Their adventure from North Italy in Tuscany  was not only the result of a  desire to search for  their el dorado, but  also  a sign of destiny printed in one of their first  label Fonte delle Donne’  .  This exquisite white wine is made from Colombana, an old grape that grew spontaneously around a miraculous water source near the estate.

According to tradition, the Colombana grape was introduced by San Columbanus ‘ followers in the 17th century , when these famous Irish abbots decided to settle here living behind their Milan area. Upon their arrival in their estate, Cantoni Family realized they were not the only foreigners who fell  in love with Tuscany,  finding  the right place where to be !

Bringing to light  the old farmstead was not easy, but all that work  devoted to transform an old ruin into a jewellery was fully rewarded, as Cantoni Family carries on a prospering farming activity today, respecting land and the local traditions. Giuseppe, the father, deals with the general management of the middle age estate and takes care of the vineyards and countryside. Matteo, the eldest of the two sons, is in charge of marketing the wines and his brother, Nicola, is the winemaker .

The grapes of ‘Fibbiano winery’

Fibbiano’s philosophy is to continue on this thread of culture and tradition, cultivating indigenous grape varieties, such as Sangiovese, Canaiolo, Ciliegiolo, ColorinoS. Colombana, and Vermentino ,  instead of more international grapes. Fattoria di Fibbiano extends over an area of about 20 hectares of vineyards, 5 hectares of olive groves, 12 hectares of woodland and the rest is arable land.

Some vineyards (around 2.5 hectares) are over 100 years old and 17.5 hectares are up to 20 years old. This  mixture of old vines and new vines  keeps the vineyard alive, with red grapes planted on the top of the hill, and white grapes on the lower parts.  Due to Fibbiano‘s proximity to the Mediterranean and Ligurian seas, the soil originates from the sea and is rich in fossil shells from the pliocene epoch, and medium-textured corals .

In terms of climate, this part of Tuscany has warm sea breezes during the day and cooler nights, which helps the grapes to retain acidity and develop flavour. This particular terroir provides to complex wines with a certain minerality,  and aging capability.

‘Fibbiano winery’ is green!

I appreciated a lot of things, above all that ‘Fibbiano winery  is certified organic. Their practices, farming and wine-growing methods are truly natural. They even use  their own wood for central heating. Further, this sustainable winery uses a solar plant to conserve energy and produce fresh water.

They are always ready  to face new challenges, not least of which  exporting 80% of their wine to the following countries: United States, Canada, Norway, Ireland, Germany, Austria, Switzerland, China, Russia, Malaysia, Singapore, Japan, Taiwan, Lebanon, Mexico.

The wines of ‘Fibbiano winery’

The best part of this incredible life experience was my top wine tasting. I was led to a lovely wine bar with a large wooden table full with  Fibbiano  Best Wines and platters of Tuscan salami, pecorino and bread.  I sampled 6 different Wines, guided by Matteo who talked me through what I was enjoying, from the colour/appearance, the bouquet/smell and then the flavour.

Each wine was different, but wonderful in its own way.  I tried red and white wines, but the majority of the ones I  tried were red. Most of them are  made from the Sangiovese grapes and some are mixed with other grapes to produce  new fantastic blends.

White and rosé

Red wines

  • ‘Le Pianette IGT Toscana’ : This is a 70% Sangiovese and 30% Colorino wine;  It  is aged for 6 months in barrels of Slavonian oak and 3 months in bottle;
  • ‘Casalini Chianti Superiore DOCG’ : This is an 80% Sangiovese and 20% Ciliegiolo wine. It is aged for 8 months in barrels of Slavonian oak and 3 months in bottle. It has the typical notes of cherry . It is  a well-structured wine with smooth tannins;
  • ‘Aspetto IGT Toscana’ :  This is a 50% Sangiovese and 50% Canaiolo wine. It is aged for 12 months in tonneaux, 6 months in cement tanks, and 6 months in bottle. This is an intense ruby red wine with notes of mature red fruit and spices;
  • ‘Ceppatella IGT Toscana’ : This is a 100% Sangiovese wine, which is made with grapes selected from the oldest vineyard of the estate – it’s a 120 years old vineyard . It is a wine aged for 6 months in tonneaux , 14 months in barrels of Slavonian oak, and 5 months in bottle. It has notes of marmalade, spices, tobacco, and cacao and a long persistence.

Matteo entertained me happily and answered all my questions  by sharing  the secrets of their quality wines: “Sun, soil and patience”!

The wine of Pisa hills

‘Fibbiano wineryoffers up a bunch of very tasty wines for wine lovers and experts to experience. It is situated predominantly in the wine trail of the Pisa hills, an itinerary through the Tuscan countryside, which highlights many small towns that boast great traditions. It’s an area between Pisa and Volterra, and it  extends in the vicinity of the Arno, Egola and Elsa rivers. It embraces  stunning landscapes and places, such as  Casciana Terme, Capannoli, Chianni, Crespina, Lari, Palaia, Ponsacco, Terricciola, Cascina, Collesalvetti, Fauglia, Laiatico, Lorenzana, Montopoli Valdarno, Peccioli, Pontedera, Santa Luce, San Miniato and Collesalvetti .

The rolling hills of Pisa  gives birth to top red & white wines:

‘Fibbiano winery’ ,  the essence of the wine tradition in Pisa

Like other talented wine producers within  this zone , ‘Fibbiano winery’ is an example  of Pisa’s great winemaking potential, that is  only to be revealed in all its splendour.  I am feeling optimistic that this area is set to receive long overdue attention. Matteo was an excellent guide and wine educator

It was so natural for him to explain all that concerned his farm and how wine is made from grapes to wine. His passionate wine tasting remains for a long time among my memory . I am eager  to learn much more about the super wines of Pisa, that’s why another visit to ‘Fibbiano winery’ will be a must!

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Cantina “Il Borro Cantina”, I Fasti di San Colombano, Lucca

Cantina “Il Borro Cantina”, I Fasti di San Colombano, Lucca

“San Colombano”, Lucca

Il mio fantastico viaggio nel Mondo del Vino inizia con  l’AIS di Lucca, ed è proprio nelle mura di questa città che stasera proseguo il mio itinerario enoico, fermandomi  in un posto esclusivo,  il Ristorante “San Colombano” . Seguitemi!

Il Natale è nell’aria , fa freddo a Lucca,  però  la città gioiello mi  scalda con il suo fascino e  le sue luci. Ad accogliermi nel ristorante la sua bella proprietaria  la Sommelier Simona Carmassi. L’atmosfera al “San Colombano” è intima e raccolta, e Simona con un sorriso enorme fa accomodare me e il resto dei numerosi ospiti ai tavoli, che sono elegantemente imbanditi per l’ Evento Speciale che mi aspetta: una Cena Degustazione tutta  Made in Tuscany.  Protagonisti dello Spettacolo Enogastronomico  i Piatti Stellati dello chef  Giuseppe Da Prato, preparati con prodotti rigorosamente locali, e i  Vini  della Cantina “Il Borro”, presentati dallo charmant  Berardino Dino Torrone,  responsabile vendita Italia di questa prestigiosa cantina in Valdarno. In regia dietro le quinte  ci sono i Sommelier Fratelli Zanni, che scelgono l’abbinamento Cibo/Vino per un Menù perfetto. Iniziano le danze, e tra una portata e l’altra, cala un  silenzio quasi sacro in sala, interrotto solo dalla spiegazione dello Staff del “San Colombano” sulle portate e sul  nettare divino. Da leccarsi i baffi! Provo a non farvi venire invidia, ma ho i miei dubbi. Siete pronti? Tra candele e scintillii di bicchieri, ecco i  fasti di “San Colombano” :

Provo a chiedere allo Chef  Giuseppe Da Prato di svelarmi qualche piccolo segreto delle sue ricette, ma non c’è niente da fare. Mi invita a ritornare e a provare qualche altro capolavoro culinario preparato da lui e da altri maghi dei fornelli,  che lo aiutano, un gruppo di ragazzi che,  nonostante la giovane età , hanno una grande esperienza nella migliore ristorazione regionale.

E sicuramente Domenica 16 Dicembre 2018 non mi perderò  il prossimo appuntamento al “San Colombano”: “Mille Bolle d’Auguri” , una passerella  dei migliori Champagne per celebrare l’arrivo di queste feste.  Non mancate a quest’altro galà Lucchese, per sorprendervi con  Nuovi Accostamenti ed Etichette che hanno dentro tutta la straordinaria Tradizione Enogastronomica della Toscana, una regione che fa sognare, come la storia che sto per raccontare.

La Cantina “Il Borro”: il Buon Vivere Toscano

La Cantina “Il Borro” è  in Toscana,  in Valdarno, nell’area Chianti DOCG, un ambiente unico per genesi e morfologia, da secoli fondamento per la coltivazione della Vite . Sembra che i primi “esperimenti di Chianti” siano stati fatti proprio in questa ricca vallata , che offre ai suoi visitatori boschi incontaminati, lunghi torrenti e dolci colline.

La Cantina  “Il Borro” si trova precisamente nel comune di Loro Ciuffena e prende il  nome dal borgo castello in cui sorge, detto appunto “il Borro”, che in dialetto toscano vuol dire “fossato”; una delle tante misure di difese prese nel Medioevo da questo posto spettacolare, a difesa delle frequenti incursioni degli stranieri , che  se lo sono conteso frequentemente  per la sua posizione e prosperità. La Cantina “Il Borro” è  un gioiello incastonato in un luogo pieno di storia,  che si estende per 700 ettari tra vigne ed uliveti, all’ombra dei cipressi dell’antica “Via dei Setteponti”,  un territorio vocato all’ Arte e alla Cultura,  tra  Firenze, Arezzo e Siena.  Si tratta di un angolo nascosto della Toscana, che una volta scoperto per la prima volta, fa innamorare e  non andare più via , come è accaduto in un lontano passato alle illustri famiglie dei Medici e dei Savoia, che ne hanno segnato le vicende, e in un presente più recente ai Numero Uno della Moda Italiana Ferruccio e Salvatore Ferragamo.

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Ferruccio Ferragamo rimane folgorato dalla bellezza di questo Antico Borgo Toscano durante una battuta di caccia nel 1985,  e nel 1993 decide di acquistare definitivamente la proprietà dal Duca di Savoia, lasciandolo poi in eredità al figlio Salvatore Ferragamo.

Da allora Ferruccio e Salvatore hanno lavorato incessantemente e con amore, per trasformare quello che prima era un rudere distrutto dalla Seconda Guerra Mondiale in quello che oggi è diventato un Relais di Lusso.  “Il Borro Relais & Châteaux” è pensato per chi vuole prendersi una pausa fuori dal tempo. Un’Oasi interamente dedicata all’Arte, alla Cultura, al Cibo & Vino di Qualità, e  all’Ospitalità . Un lembo di paradiso che racconta una Toscana inedita, dove trovano rifugio dagli appassionati più esigenti di Spa, Golf ed Equitazione, ai Wine & Life Lovers più semplici, che si emozionano davanti alla natura, che qui  si manifesta in tutto il suo rigoglio nei filari di Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah, Petit Verdot e il più tipico Sangiovese. La famiglia Ferragamo porta in alto il nome del Made in Italy nel mondo attraverso il Vino firmato “Il Borro”  , un’ Etichetta  d’Autore, con qualità, classe, semplicità, rispetto della tradizione e del territorio, e con uno sguardo verso il futuro. Oggi  i Ferragamo  hanno salvaguardato la preziosità di questi paesaggi, mantenendone intatto il fascino,  e contribuendo così ad affermare  sempre più il brand Toscana nel Mondo, nel Turismo e nei Prodotti di Eccellenza.

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 Scusate , adesso vado a preparare le valigie.

Alla prossima!  Sempre se ritorno…

Enjoy It! 

Stefania

Who is Roberto Cipresso?

Who is Roberto Cipresso?

If you want to thrill someone,  first try to feel  the same emotions you desire to awake…” .

R. Cipresso.

Roberto Cipresso, international winemaker of Montalcino

Scanning across the bookshelves in my flat, it dawns on me that my collection falls into three categories: wine, food and  travel! The three passions that form the  main plot of  Wine, the secret Novel , a book written by Roberto Cipresso. Roberto Cipresso presented his  outstanding work at ‘Nautilius, an elegant restaurant by the sea and close to  Pisa .

It was an unforgettable event  that allowed me  to meet  one of the most important winemaker in  Italy, Roberto Cipresso . He is a special person, as well as a great wine entrepreneur.  From his base in Montalcino, Tuscany, he has changed winemaking worldwide. How?  Read his incredible story, and you will find the answer!

Roberto-Cipresso-The- Secret -Novel

‘Wine the Secret Novel’ , a novel by Roberto Cipresso

Andrea Baldeschi , the owner of the ‘Nautiliusrestaurant,  hosted that memorable dinner in honour of  Roberto Cipresso.  A crowd of people were waiting to hear the famous vigneron speak about his life and his professional achievements.

First of all, Roberto Cipresso greeted us all with a big smile and then went on to introduce  ‘Wine, the Secret Novel‘  , one of  the three books he has written about wine.  It is an attempt to give a general outline of the history of wine.  Wine has rolled its barrel from the shores of the  Black Sea to the mountains of the Andes, following humans and their dreams. His book goes back through time  retracing the grape’s conquest of the world, stopping in each winemaking country, from the oldest to the most recent,  discovering wines past and present, while also looking to the future.

3 tops wines of Roberto Cipresso 

That evening at the ‘Nautiliusrestaurant there was also a fantastic wine tasting, including some of the best wines of Roberto Cipresso :

    • ‘Punto Bianco Toscana IGT :  This is a white wine made from Vermentino and Verdicchio. These grapes are the most representative of Italy, being cultivated in the region of the  the 43rd Parallel. This is  an imaginary line, which  traces through all the places that have given origin to viticulture throughout the world from Europe to the New World. The wine had a dry and even astringent taste , with a  contrasting rich coconut aroma, giving a nice round feel in the mouth, and a long-lasting finish.  It was paired with a delicious tuna pasta;
    • ‘Pi Greco Toscana IGT ‘ : This is a red wine made of 100%  Sangiovese   . It  offers primary flavours of tart cherry, red plum, strawberry, and fig, with subtle notes of roasted pepper, leather, and clay.  In its nose offers aromas of earth and tea leaf.  On the palate it is a full-bodied wine,  displaying a marked acidity, an important tannic structure and a long and intense persistence. It  was paired with a pasta enhanced with wild boar ragù;
    • Quadratura del Cerchio’ : This wine is made from  Sangiovese (60%),  Montepulciano (20%) , and  Sagrantino (20%).  This is Roberto Cipresso‘s first attempt to make the ideal wine and it is his first attempt at wine experimentation. Its grapes are the best in Italy, and above all they grow along  the 43rd  Parallel!  This wine went perfectly with a  dish of (soft) veal and tiny roast potatoes.

Guests enjoyed the pleasant atmosphere of that unforgettable dinner at the ‘Nautilius restaurant, while  Roberto Cipresso was seducing us all with his beautiful spell.  Here  are some important acts about his life  and professional background.

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Who is Roberto Cipresso? 

I felt the power of Roberto‘s personality,  while he was presenting his book that evening at the ‘Nautilius restaurant! Roberto Cipresso is an oenologist, an international  winemaker, and writer. Without any doubt he is also a visionary leader . His way of  life makes him stand out from the rest of the crowd as regards the field of wine.

He can imagine things that others cannot imagine and sees the whole  landscape of winemaking as a big picture,  and not a single step. He is present and focused. You can connect with him, when  he talks about what he has in mind, or  when he teaches you something about wine,  or when he tells you about his travel, his previous job experiences, and his life!

The story of Roberto Cipresso 

Roberto Cipresso was born in  Bassano del Grappa (Veneto) in 1963 . Initially his first love was the mountains. He studied agriculture and received a master’s degree in viticulture in Padua, Northern Italy only out of necessity.  He thought  that skiing and climbing would  be his future,  though a terrible accident caused him to  change his ideas.

In order to study with Professor Attilio Scienza, a respected Italian scientist in the field of vine, in 1987 Roberto moved to Montalcino  . Forgetting that tragic episode,  he fell in love with the world of the wine,  thus  starting his winemaking career at three outstanding estates in Tuscany :

Mountains have played a large role in the life of  Roberto Cipresso.  In fact, he learnt how to survive and how to know  his limits! At the same time he improved his skill in observing nature, developing an extraordinary knowledge  of the vineyards of Tuscany in order to create wine.

He  learnt a lot about wine during his younger years in Montalcino , from the planting of grapes to how  the wine was bottled. It was the most challenging and formative step of his fantastic life’s work with wine.

The goals of Roberto Cipresso

Roberto Cipresso soon gained success, being invited to advise Italian producers  as well as wineries around the world, including those in South America (‘Achaval-Ferrer Winery’,  Argentina). Travelling helped  Roberto Cipresso open his mind. He experienced different realities of wine ,  observing wine from a different angle,  and eventually was ready to work as a wine consultant !

The opportunities Roberto Cipresso had to put his professional skills and ideas  as regards wine into practice are exemplified by  four of his major projects:

  1. ‘Fattoria La Fiorita’In 1992 together with two popular partners, he founded this boutique winery in Castelnuovo dell’Abate, near Montalcino , which is still running. This boutique winery produced the iconic Brunello , gaining  numerous prestigious awards, including Parker points of 99, 98 and 97; 
  2. Winemaking project’: In 1999 at the behest of wine industry professionals he created a team of qualified consultants in the field of agronomy and oenology  in collaboration with his brother Gianfranco, and his friend Santiago Achaval, who is the founder of  the stunning ‘Matervini winery’ in Argentina ;
  3. ‘Wine Circus’: In 2001 he created this big  wine lab  in Montalcino  , where ideas and projects are shared with wine experts and universities   in order to solve  problems  regarding the winemaking process;
  4. ‘Poggio al Sole’: In 1990 he crafted this modern five starred wine relais , which is situated between Siena and Florence.  Here  Roberto Cipresso  planted his precious grapes of   Brunello   , which are used in  the making of the  best labels of his red wines.
The wine hits parade of Roberto Cipresso 

Recalling the most important enterprising ventures of Roberto Cipresso together with his lifetime achievements awards in terms of wine and food  culture, means understanding his complex and sensitive soul: 

The 3 books about wine written by Roberto Cipresso

The list here above would already be too long, taking into account that  Roberto often gave  lectures and speeches at wine schools and important universities in the world ! Already famous for his achievements in Italy and Argentina,  Roberto  rapidly obtained recognition in Europe and North America as one of the world’s elite winemakers.

Roberto is a creative and multitalented man. Along with the benefits of his many abilities and passions, there is his love for writing, represented by  another three books he has written about wine and its mystery, published between  2006 and 2009::

The ‘Cipresso 43rd project’. How to  make the wine of the future!

Without any doubt, Roberto Cipresso  is a  charismatic, brilliant and enthusiastic wine entrepreneur! He still continues on his incredible adventure in his inspiring  wine experiment entitled ‘Cipresso 43 rd project’. According to Roberto Cipresso, rules are important  in producing a perfect wine,  though they cannot stop evolution. We should consider rules as a point of departure, not as a point of arrival!

Bearing this in mind, Roberto  started his revolution in the world of wine, thereby provoking scandal! He went beyond the traditional concept of terroir, which was not identified as such as being in a specific area of the world, though within the same horizon!

The theory of the 43rd Parallel 

According to Roberto’s recent research this horizon is  the 43rd Parallel, a magical  line containing singular physical and spiritual features regarding wine production,  situated halfway between the Equator and the North Pole.  This parallel runs through central and florid places, which have shaped the main grapes and phases in the evolution of vine culture from Mesopotamia to the USA:

‘The Cipresso 43 rd project is an attempt to create an oenological itinerary using only grapes grown at a Northern latitude of 43rd degrees.  It could be considered an attempt to make the wine of the future.

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The X-factor of Roberto Cipresso

The life of Roberto Cipresso is about striving for excellence and harmony  not only in wine,  though  also in life.  Roberto doesn’t  limit himself only to his own thoughts and ideas. When you talk to him, he listens to whatever you have to say  attentively. He  encourages you to be as creative as possible and never to be afraid of presenting your own point of view!

Roberto  explained to me  the big picture of  his vision of wine and how to live  in this world. His  work is an essential part of his existence. It is not only about running a laboratory or doing analysis, it is mainly about being part of making something amazing. It  is by combining science, creativity and love, that you keep things interesting, and it is a great industry to be involved with as well. Roberto Cipresso  experiments with unconventional colors to find inspiration for his next masterpiece, that is still to come! I’m looking forward to it!

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‘Vinoè 2018’ , Florence

‘Vinoè 2018’ , Florence

“One should always be drunk. That’s all that matters…But with what? With wine, with poetry, or with virtue, as you chose. But get drunk.”
Charles Baudelaire

“Vinoè 2018” , a stunning wine exihibition in Florence

“Vinoè 2018” is an event in Florence, which is  dedicated to Italian and international wine wxcellence . Now it is in its third edition and is  organized by FISAR’ (‘Italian Federation of Hotel and Catering Sommeliers’). There are not only exihibitors with their best bottles of white, sparkling, rosé and red wines, but also cooking shows .

15 reasons to go to “Vinoè 2018”,  in Florence

“Vinoè 2018” is a meeting point for wine lovers and expetrs.  It is possible in 3 days  to discover:

  1. 800 wine labels, among the famous and less famous wineries;
  2. 140 tasting counters, chaired by winemakers, providing a special glimpse of  national  and international  wine making tradition;
  3. Wine roducers from all over Italy, from the North to the South; in particular there will be a wide representation of Tuscany with its Brunello di Montalcino. This is a red DOCG Italian wine produced in the vineyards surrounding the town of Montalcino , which is located about 80 km South of Florence in the Tuscany Wine region;
  4. The great  ine excellence from beyond the Alps;
  5. An interesting debate about reduction and replacement of sulphites in wine launched by  Carlos Veloso dos Santos , CEO of “Amorim”
  6. The art of asting chocolate, grapes & distillates with a special workshop presented by Paolo Bini, whois a distillate expert;
  7. The secrets of winemaking in anfora from ancient to modern time with a seminar dedicated on this issue , a meeting whose speaker is the oenologist Francesco Bartoletti;
  8.  The terroir of Burgundy with the vertical tasting of Vosne Romanée Clos des Réas 1er Cru” (Pinot Noir in purity produced between 2011 and 2015);
  9. A masterclass dedicated to champagne vintages led by Cristina Willemsen of  “Fier Ce Fit”;
  10. A vertical tasting of Lauro Costa Toscana IGT Podere la Regola”,  and of Brunello Montalcino Castello Banfi” ;
  11. Food and wine culture of eastern countries, the origins and rituals of  Sakè (a Japanese drink that is made by fermenting rice) told by Giovanni Baldini of “Firenze Sakè” and by Arimitsu Sake Brewery” ;
  12. A professional talk about the physico-chemical composition or the organoleptic  characteristics of the wine by Monica Picchi, teacher at “Agrarian Faculty of the University of Florence”
  13. A journey around the world of the women entrepreneurs in the field of wine making moderated by the sommelier  Genni Setteducati;
  14. Emanuele Costantini, the best FISAR” , who earned a nomination for best sommelier  2018;
  15. Cooking classes with a pool of experts: Michelangelo Masoni, who is  a famous butcher of ViareggioSimone Alessio Sparacino, who is the chef at the starred  “CumQuibus” of San Gimignano; Francesco Secci, who is a member of the “Prato Deak Team”; the partners of ” Consorzio di Tutela del Vitellone Bianco dell’Appennino Centrale”, which is an Italian consortium for the protecion of native breeds, such as the Chianina  and the white veal from thecentral Apennines.

8 great Italian vines at “Vinoè 2018” 

“Vinoè 2018” is a really beautiful and inspiring experience. There are lots of visitors and I have the fantastic opportunity to taste high quality wine such as:
  1. “Tintilia (66)”, Claudio Cipressi, Molise;
  2. Bianco di Mariagrazia”,Tenuta Benedetta Etna Bianco,  Sicily;
  3. “Tommaso Stellino”, Sicily;
  4. “Scalunera Etna Bianco”, Torre Mora/Piccini, Sicily/Tuscany;
  5. “Eleuteria”, Nerello Mascalese, Tenuta del Travale, Calabria;
  6. “Barolo”, Bruna Grimaldi, Piedmont;
  7. “Erbaluce”, Cieck, Piedmont;
  8. “Alta Langa”, Borgo Moncalvo, Piedmont.

3 great Italian wineries at “Vinoè 2018” 

Of course there are lot of wineries which deserve lot of attention, but I have selected three of them . They are located in the South of Italy .  The wines ofItaly’s southern wine districts are bold, full-bodied, and satisfying.

Southern Italy has been producing wine for over 4000 years. The wine business here was already booming in 2000 B.C. when the Phoenicians arrived. The Greeks dubbed southern Italy “The Land of Wine” and the Romans delighted in the wines of the Campania region.

In modern times, however, wine production in southern Italy has languished, and a large portion of wine produced there was sold to France and Germany as a blending wine. All that is changing!

Give a lokk to the rich and fine wine production of these wineries here above which are situated in Molise, Sicily, and Calabria. Have fun!

1. “Claudio Cipressi Winery”, Molise

Claudio Cipressi Winery”, is located in San Felice del Molise, Campobasso. Since 2014 it has become officially certified as organic .  Moliseis a beautiful region with a unique landscape. It is largely uncontaminated and the vineyards have great potential, which is why Claudio Cipressi cultivates 16 hectares with enthusiasm. Claudio Cipressi has reintroduced the Tintilia a native white grape variety.

2. “Tenuta Mora Winery”, Sicily

“Tenuta Mora Winery is owned by the historic Tuscan producer Tenute Piccini”, one of the most popular brand of Chianti, Chianti Classico, and Brunello Wines in Italy and the world. “Tenuta Mora Winery is a boutique winery located on the Etna volcano, a black mountain looking at a blue shining sea, a unique place able to craft hidden wine gems.

The two vineyards of “Tenuta Mora are located at about 650-700m in Contrada Rovittello, in the municipality of Castiglione di Sicilia and Contrada Torre, in the municipality of Linguaglossa. The philosophy of “Tenuta Mora Winery is one grape, one territory. Their main grapes are Nerello Mascalese and Nerello Cappuccio. The average age of vines sits at around 15 years old .

Vineyards on the Etna feature extremely fertile volcanic soils at an altitude of 650-700 meters above sea level (2100-2300 ft), with important temperature variations between day and night considerably influencing the quality of the grapes. Other properties under the Piccini umbrella are Valiano in Chianti ClassicoVilla al Cortille in Montalcino, Tenuta Moraia in the Maremma Toscana, and Regio Cantinain the Aglianico del Vulture DOC zone of Basilicata.  They are passionate about Winemaking!

3. “Tenuta del Travale”, Cosenza

Tenuta del Travale”  is located in Rovito, Cosenza, a thirty minute drive from the spectacular blue sea of the Tyrrhenian coast in Calabria. Calabria is a wine region waiting to be discovered. Calabrian Wine has not received the recognition it deserves, even though the region of Calabria has a very long history of vine cultivation. The territory is gorgeous, but the economic problems of the region have prevented it from achieving its full potential.

A goal that was pursued with determination by the owners of “Tenuta del Travale” , Raffaella Ciardullo and his husband Nicola Piluso. Today they run this stunning  estate revitalising the old territory.  They carry on the intent of defending the ancient Calabrian origin of Nerello Mascalese with one single label “Eleuteria” (there is  some evidence that Nerello Mascalese may be related to Mantonico Bianco, an ancientCalabrian grape). “Tenuta del Travale” covers two hectares of hilly terrain. Founded in 1993, the estate cultivates today only 2 varieties of vines, Nerello Mescalese and Nerello Cappuccio, from which are produced Red Wines with the IGP recognition.

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What is “Vinoè 2018”

“Vinoè 2018”  is not only a sensorial experience. It’s the perfect place where you can understand why the story behind each wine in your glass matters. There’s the value of work according to human passion and effort. An example of authentic life to follow in the caos of these times!

“Vinoè 2018”   is a way to travel in the world of wine, which is one of the best attractive in Florence. The capital of Tuscany  has remarkable wines, most notably the deep red wine Chianti Classico,  which is made with perfect purple Sangiovese grapes grown in the golden sunlight of the Tuscan hills. You’ll also find fine wines like the Brunello di Montalcino, Pomino Vin Santo and other Trebiano white wines, and Moscadello varieties for sweet wines! It takes a long time to speak about wine in Tuscany, so it’s better for you to come and taste them! Have a nice trip!

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Stefania